The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.53
SUMMER2017

Devilled kidneys & something from the Gulf of Mexico via the North Sea (not oil).

You can devil most anything but for our money nothing beats a kidney. The fiery devil complements rather than overwhelms the strong and piquant flavor of the offal. Because of this compatibility, it should be no surprise that recipes for kidneys proliferated in the heyday of the devil. A good rendition ensues.