The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.53
SUMMER2017

An “utterly inauthentic” maritime kedgeree.

Freddie Hoffman, the father of flamboyant Roxy Beaujolais, who provides the quoted description of the dish in Home From the Inn Contented, served aboard a minesweeper where, according to his daughter, he “first mastered his dish.” It substitutes a shipboard staple, canned tuna, for the customary smoked haddock and represents a more than handy larder dish. The sophistication of the dish is deceptive: Its big pool of citrus counterbalances the butter and oil with a certain élan. Four servings.


  • Canned-Tuna.jpg9 oz unsalted butter
  • generous ¼ teaspoon curry powder
  • a 7 oz can tuna packed in oil
  • 6 hardcooked eggs, whites chopped, yolks crumbled and kept apart
  • 10 oz cooked rice
  • salt and pepper
  • 2 Tablespoons lemon juice
  • cayenne 

  1. Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat, stir in the curry and remove the skillet from the heat.
  2. Fold the tuna, breaking it up, egg whites and rice into the curry butter.
  3. Return the skillet to low heat and check for salt, and add the pepper, then the lemon juice.
  4. Top each portion of kedgeree with the crumbled yolks and a sprinkle of cayenne.

Notes:

-The original recipe specifies brown rice.

-You do not need to spend a fortune on ventresca, but good quality tuna packed in olive oil improves the kedgeree considerably.