Potted mushrooms.

You can pot just about anything, although mushrooms do not often appear in the traditional canon. The Editor particularly likes to make this dish because it concentrates the mushroom flavor. The ubiquitous English seasoning of mace adds a subtle tang too. This is dead easy to make and good on toast.

- about 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
- about 3 cups of coarsely chopped mushrooms in small pieces
- melted clarified butter or ghee, cooled but not congealed
- about ½ teaspoon salt or to taste
- ¼ teaspoon cayenne or to taste
- ½ teaspoon mace
- 1 teaspoon mushroom ketchup or to taste (optional)

1. Melt the butter over high heat in a large skillet, then add the mushrooms, shaking the pan from time to time so that the mushrooms do not scorch, until they color.
2. Reduce the heat to low, add all the seasonings, stir, and simmer the mushrooms until any liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms have softened.
3. Let the mushroom mixture cook, squeeze out any residual liquid if necessary, and firmly push the mixture into small ramekins or pudding pots with a spoon. Cover each ramekin or pot with the clarified butter and chill until ready to serve.

Notes:

- This recipe is adapted from Eliza Acton’s Modern Cookery for Private Families (1845), a good book extensively plagiarized by the more celebrated (if lately notorious) Mrs. Beeton.

- A little Worcestershire or some minced shallots or both are other good additions.