Biddlesdale breakfast curry from The Lord Peter Wimsey Cookbook by Elizabeth Ryan & William Eakins (New Haven 1981) really is a simple form of kedgeree even though the authors fail to say so. It is none the worse for that and makes a lovely Sunday supper. About four servings.
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 generous tablespoon anchovy paste
- heaped teaspoon curry powder
- some cayenne (or not) depending on the heat of your curry powder
- about 2 cups cooked rice
- about 1 cup shredded smoked haddock
- unsalted butter for greasing an ovenpot
- about 2 Tablespoons minced parsley
- about 3 tablespoons minced scallion greens
- some lemon wedges
Preheat the oven to 350°
- Whisk the anchovy, curry and perhaps cayenne into the yolks.
- Combine the beaten egg mixture with the rice, then fold the haddock into the gooey rice.
- Turn the kedgeree into a buttered ovenpot and bake it until steamy, usually in about 20 minutes; take care not to overcook it.
- Serve the kedgeree topped with the parsley and scallion, accompanied with lemon wedges.
-The Editor has added the greens and citrus to the original recipe. Some kedgerees include a little heavy cream; you might add some too, at Step 1.
-A splash of Worcestershire, also at Step 1, which did, after all, originate as an Anglo-Indian concept, adds welcome bite.
-Between the anchovy and smoked haddock, you should need no salt.
-In a pinch you can substitute smoked trout for the haddock but it costs more and, while wonderful in itself, is the less satisfactory alternative here.
-The traditional fish for this kind of dish among middle class Britons at mid-twentieth century was canned salmon. It did, and does, make a tasty kedgeree too. It has the considerable benefit of economy as well.