The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.53
SUMMER2017

Biddlesdale breakfast curry

Biddlesdale breakfast curry from The Lord Peter Wimsey Cookbook by Elizabeth Ryan & William Eakins (New Haven 1981) really is a simple form of kedgeree even though the authors fail to say so. It is none the worse for that and makes a lovely Sunday supper. About four servings.


Salmon_canned.jpg

  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 generous tablespoon anchovy paste
  • heaped teaspoon curry powder
  • some cayenne (or not) depending on the heat of your curry powder
  • about 2 cups cooked rice
  • about 1 cup shredded smoked haddock
  • unsalted butter for greasing an ovenpot
  • about 2 Tablespoons minced parsley
  • about 3 tablespoons minced scallion greens
  • some lemon wedges

Preheat the oven to 350°

  1. Whisk the anchovy, curry and perhaps cayenne into the yolks.
  2. Combine the beaten egg mixture with the rice, then fold the haddock into the gooey rice.
  3. Turn the kedgeree into a buttered ovenpot and bake it until steamy, usually in about 20 minutes; take care not to overcook it.
  4. Serve the kedgeree topped with the parsley and scallion, accompanied with lemon wedges.

Notes:

-The Editor has added the greens and citrus to the original recipe. Some kedgerees include a little heavy cream; you might add some too, at Step 1.

-A splash of Worcestershire, also at Step 1, which did, after all, originate as an Anglo-Indian concept, adds welcome bite.

-Between the anchovy and smoked haddock, you should need no salt.

-In a pinch you can substitute smoked trout for the haddock but it costs more and, while wonderful in itself, is the less satisfactory alternative here.

-The traditional fish for this kind of dish among middle class Britons at mid-twentieth century was canned salmon. It did, and does, make a tasty kedgeree too. It has the considerable benefit of economy as well.