Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert’s mashed potato chutney from Culinary Jottings for Madras, his classic of Anglo-Indian cuisine. It will sound a most unlikely proposition to anyone familiar only with the usual suspects in the chutney lineup like Major Grey’s, mango and the like. In reality British India relished all manner of chutneys, including but not limited to cocoanut, coriander, tomato and, yes, mashed potato. After a pause for thought, the idea of mashed potato chutney is not so outlandish. It is a cousin, close to the point of incest, to the German style potato salad that relies on acid and spice more than fat. This is the kind of thing a Cajun from the bayou would spoon into her gumbo rather than rice. It works wonders as well alongside a curry of the Raj.
The proportions are too flexible to enumerate. As to ingredients you will want:
- cooked mashed potato
- minced chili; it ought to be at least reasonably hot
- minced onion
- pinch sugar
- some vinegar (the Editor likes coconut for this but any other than balsamic will do)
Fold all the items together and allow them to settle overnight before serving. Utter and satisfying simplicity results.
-The redoubtable Kenney-Herbert enumerates a number of other happy chutneys in his Jottings.