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dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.72
FALL/WINTER2023

Black pudding hash & eggs.

A good introduction to black pudding for the uninitiated and squeamish, and another innovation from Terry Edwards and George Craig that had very nearly hid in plain sight until they tried it. We have taken this hash further than they did, among other things by adding beets in the red flannel New England way. Four big servings.


Eggs-english.jpg

 

  • 5 Tablespoons unsalted butter
  • an onion sliced into thin crescents
  • a peeled and minced shallot
  • 1 lb diced black pudding
  • 3 or 4 peeled, diced and cooked russet potatoes
  • about 1 cup cooked diced beets
  • Worcestershire
  • minced parsley and scallion greens
  • 8 eggs

 

 


 

  1. Melt the butter over medium low heat in a heavy skillet and cook the onion and shallot until limp but not brown: Remove them from the skillet.
  2. Increase the heat to medium high and add the black pudding dice to give them a quick sear, then reduce the heat back to medium low and add the potatoes to the mix for a few minutes.
  3. Ad the beets just to warm them up, then carefully stir the Worcestershire into the hash so the dice do not break apart.
  4. Stir the minced greens into the hash and keep it warm.
  5. Poach the eggs in boiling salted water laced with a little vinegar and top each of four tranches of hash with two of the eggs for service.

Notes:

-Ketchup is not a common component of bfia recipes but it is essential with hash. As with lime for rum and tonic, bread sauce with roast chicken or cured pork with chowder it is the entire point of the preparation. The Edwards and Craig smoked ketchup, also described in the practical, is particularly good.

-You will, of course, want toast.

-Edwards and Craig use a whopping eight ounces of butter; soothing enough in a heedless way but you will not need so much.

-They also like garlic instead of shallot, but garlic has no place in hash. It is aggressive and invades the other ingredients to mute them.

-The Ivy has been cooking something similar--not quite the same, happily devoid of garlic and not called hash--for a long time, but also without the transformative beets.