Angels on horseback.

A classic English ‘savoury’ infrequently encountered now that nobody eats them after dessert. That is a shame and need not be the case because angels make excellent hors d’ouvres.

1. Season your oysters with a drip of anchovy essence (optional but quintessentially English), a trace of cayenne and dribble of lemon juice.
2. Wrap each oyster on about an inch and a half of bacon that you secure with a toothpick.
3. Broil the angels to crisp their bacon and serve them with (or on) toast.

Notes:

- You can find anchovy essence all over Britain, online of course or at English specialty shops like Myers of Keswick in Manhattan.

- Some older and benighted recipes poach the oysters before grilling them. That converts them to rubber balls.

- Jane Grigson enriches her angels by brushing the bacon with butter before broiling or by frying them in clarified butter; a bit too much.

- To make devils on horseback substitute a prune for each oyster.