The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.53
SUMMER2017

Fast Food

Hare

FAST Food: A rash confession of prejudices.

It is a truth universally acknowledged, that attention spans are not what they used to be. In recognition of this undeniable fact, we have decided to offer a series of capsule reviews for those of our readers too restless or too busy to exploit or enjoy the essay format that appears elsewhere at britishfoodinamerica. FAST Food offers assessments of authors, books, journalists, public figures and restaurants. We have been selective if not systematic in our subjects. Followers of fashion will be incapable of confining their pursuit of the moment to things British, so FAST Food in turn is not confined to our usual range of topics.

To streamline these reviews, and so reduce the amount of time required to utilize them, we thoughtfully have dispensed with fripperies like addresses and contact numbers because we realize that our more frantic readers will Google any entry that interests them anyway. Readers interested in this feature of bfia, in particular the fashionable and metrosexual among us who have high disposable incomes (or had, and have replaced them with a quaint if ruinous infatuation with debt since the onset of recession), will need to return to it frequently, both because of the rapid lurches in public opinion about the subjects under review and because we cannot guarantee how long any particular item will remain onsite at FAST Food.

This feature of bfia is unlikely to appeal to published sociologists and Marxist historians, who prefer instead to read and write long, impenetrable heaps of jargon conveying minimal information of limited practical use.


Authors of British Cookbooks:Hare

Thumbs Up Eliza Acton

Thumbs Up Elisabeth Ayrton

Thumbs Up Elizabeth David

Thumbs Up Theodora FitzGibbon

Thumbs Up Jane Grigson

Thumbs Up Sophie Grigson

Thumbs Up Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Food Writers:hare

Thumbs Up Bill Buford

Thumbs Up Philippa Davenport

Thumbs Down Florence Fabricant

Thumbs Up Betty Fussell

Thumbs Up H.P. Lovecraft

Thumbs Up Jeffrey Steingarten

Food Columnists: Hare

At The Boston Globe :

Thumbs Up Devra First

At the Financial Times :

Thumbs Up Philippa Davenport (emeritus?)

Thumbs Up Nicholas Lander

Thumbs Down Rowley Leigh

At The Independent :

Thumbs Up Mark Hix

At the Irish Times :

Thumbs Up Theodora FitzGibbon (emeritus)

At New York Magazine/Grubstreet :

Thumbs Up Adam Platt

At The New York Times :

Thumbs Down Frank Bruni

Thumbs Up Mark Bittman

Thumbs Up Craig Claiborne (emeritus)

Thumbs Up Melissa Clark

Thumbs Up Pierre Franey (emeritus)

Thumbs Up Nathalie Jordi

Thumbs Up Sam Sifton

At The Times (London) :

Thumbs Up Lindsey Bareham

On British Food: hare

Thumbs Up Elisabeth Ayrton

Thumbs Up Eric Blair

Thumbs Up Elizabeth David

Thumbs Up Theodora FitzGibbon

Thumbs Up Jane Grigson

Thumbs Up Mark Hix

On French Food: Hare

The britishfoodinamerica site does not ordinarily address French food.

On Italian Food: hare

Thumbs Up Pellegrino Artusi

Thumbs Up the ‘Barefoot Contessa’

Thumbs Up Guiliano Bugialli

Thumbs Up Elizabeth David

Thumbs Up Johanne Killeen and George Germon

Thumbs Up Franco and Margaret Romagnoli

Historians: Hare

Thumbs Up Tim Blanning

Thumbs Up Kate Colquohon

Thumbs Up David Cordingly

Thumbs Up David Brion Davis

Thumbs Up John Keegan

Thumbs Up Gilly Lehmann

Thumbs Up Edmund S. Morgan

Thumbs Up Marcus Rediker

Thumbs Up N.A.M. Rodger

Thumbs Up Larry Sabato

Baroque Architects: hare

Thumbs Up Balthasar Gerbier

Thumbs Up Nicholas Hawksmoor

Thumbs Up Roger Pratt

Thumbs Up William Talman

Thumbs Up John Vanbrugh

Thumbs Up William Winde

Thumbs Up Christopher Wren

The First Chicago School of Architecture: Hare

Thumbs Up Dankmar Adler

Thumbs Up Daniel Burnham

Thumbs Up Edward LeBaron Jenny

Thumbs Up Henry Hobson Richardson

Thumbs Up John Root

Thumbs Up Louis Sullivan

Thumbs Up Frank Lloyd Wright

Restaurants: hare

In Boston (Massachusetts):

Thumbs Up The Daily Catch

Thumbs Up The Fish Camp

Thumbs Up The Blue Room(Cambridge)

Thumbs Up Locke-Ober

Thumbs Up Jacob Wirth

In Houston, Texas: (of all places)

Thumbs Up Feast

In New Orleans:

Thumbs Up Bayona

Thumbs Up Brigston’s

Thumbs Up Commander’s Palace

Thumbs Up Casamento’s

Thumbs Up Cochon

Thumbs Up Clancy’s

Thumbs Up Desire

Thumbs Up Galatoire’s

Thumbs Up Herbsaint

Thumbs Up K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen

Thumbs Up MiLa

Thumbs Up Slim Goodies Diner

In New York:

Thumbs Down The Breslin (bar)

Thumbs Up The Breslin

Thumbs Up Clerkenwell

Thumbs Up Cookshop

Thumbs Down Dim Sum Go Go

Thumbs Up Double Crown

Thumbs Up The Harrison

Thumbs Up Highlands

Thumbs Up Keene’s Steak House

Thumbs Up The Mermaid Inn

Thumbs Up The Oyster Bar at Grand Central - Saloon

Thumbs Down The Oyster Bar at Grand Central

Thumbs Up Pao

Thumbs Up Po

Thumbs Up Seabra’s Marisqueria

Thumbs Up Tout Va Bien

Thumbs Up Trestle on 10th

Thumbs Down “21”

In Philadelphia:

Thumbs Up Bookbinders

Thumbs Up Chifa

Thumbs Down Le Bec Fin

Thumbs Up Oyster Bar

Thumbs Up Standard Tap

Thumbs Up Tangerine

In London:

Thumbs Up Baltic

Thumbs Up Corrigans Mayfair

Thumbs Up Andrew Edmunds

Thumbs Down The Guinea--Dining Room

Thumbs Up The Guinea -- Public House

Thumbs Up Hix Oyster & Chop House

Thumbs Up Moro

Thumbs Up The Newman Arms

Thumbs Down Quaglino’s

Thumbs Up The Quality Chop House

Thumbs Up RSL

Thumbs Down Rule’s

Thumbs Up St. John

Thumbs Up St. John Bread & Wine

Thumbs Down The Square

Thumbs Up Sweetings

Thumbs Up Wilton’s

the bfia Wall of SHAME

Thumbs Down Vogue and Jeffrey Steingarten