The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.73
SPRING / SUMMER2024

‘Status Stew’ from the cookbook “for people who cannot cook & do not want other people to know it.”

The Madison Avenue Cook Book , a parody that appeared in 1962, could credibly claim a prize for one of the funnier books written in the culinary idiom. Against odds however it also contains some good recipes, including this one. Four servings of elegant stew.


 

  • Mad-ave-cookbook006.jpg¼ cup diced lean bacon
  • 2 lb “elegant rump steak” cut into 1/½ inch cubes
  • 2 oz unsalted butter
  • 2 big sweet onions, like Vidalia, sliced into thin crescents
  • generous cup sliced mushrooms
  • 3 smashed and minced cloves garlic
  • 1 Tablespoon flour
  • 2 teaspoons bouquet garni ( see the Notes)
  • 2 teaspoons good salt (like Maldon)
  • a bottle of good red wine
  • salt and pepper
  • about 2 teaspoons mushroom ketchup
  • about two dozen tiny onions (thawed from frozen are fine)
  • chopped parsley

 


  1. Brown the bacon over medium low het to render and crisp it
  2. Remove the bacon, increase the heat to high and brown the beef in batches if necessary; do not crowd the chunks or they we steam and toughen.
  3. Remove the beef and sear the mushrooms until streaked deep gold
  4. Decrease the heat to medium, or medium low if necessary to prevent scorching, and sweat the onion until limp.
  5. Add the garlic, stir it around for a minute or so, then stir in the flour.
  6. Return everything cooked to the pot and douse it with enough of the wine just to cover the stew.
  7. Add the bouquet, salt, pepper and mushroom ketchup.
  8. Simmer the stew until the meat is tender, usually in about two hours, topping up the wine if needed.
  9. Throw the onions into the pot and simmer for another fifteen minutes or so.
  10. Serves the stew showered with parsley.

Notes:

-Bouquet garni should include bay and thyme and may also include basil and rosemary. Dried herbs other than rosemary are more than acceptable.

-If you have no mushroom ketchup substitute about a Tablespoon of Worcestershire.

-A cheaper cut of beef, brisket or chuck, really is good notwithstanding the admonition of the Madison Avenue Cook never, never, never to spare expense.

-The addition of a ribbon of orange or, better, buttons of dried Chinese tangerine peel, would be a welcome addition with the wine. Be sure to fish away the peel before service. It is a most Madisonian move because nobody will identify the flavor as such, further enhancing the culinary reputation of the otherwise inept cook.