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NEW Mrs Wolfe’s Cookery Book
Now called Quebec House, the property continues to be administered and cared for by the National Trust (http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/quebec-house). It is open to the public, albeit rather infrequently during the winter months, and is well worth visiting. During a recent visit a volunteer cook was at work in the kitchen preparing delicious rosewater macaroons. The recipe came from Mrs Wolfe’s Cookbook (volume 1), which was available for purchase. This slim publication, comprising a mere six pages, contains two ‘18th century’ recipes and four of Mrs Wolfe’s. All the dishes are sweet, rather than savoury, even the pickled lemons and the potato pudding. All in all, Mrs Wolfe’s Cookbook, in reality barely a leaflet, seemed rather limited.  With no introduction or commentary, it fails even to point out that Mrs Wolfe was not James’s wife, but his mother, Henrietta.

• Scottish Enlightenment and the lack of it: A note on Elizabeth David and Christian Isobel Johnstone
• A note on two Digbys.

• Factual fiction, featuring strange birds, narcotics, romantic foodways, a quack doctor and Things: Part 1 of 3.

• A rueful response.
• Harrods Book of Traditional English Cookery

• A rueful response.

• Old School home cooks in Oxfordshire and its hilly environs.
• A tale of two Scottish cities.

• Occasional Miscellany, or, disparate approaches to adversity and the egg.

• A flight, at intervals unfortunately of fancy, through the development of American foodways through the examination of some influential figures via Women in the Kitchen by Anne Willan and featuring a pirate of exquisite mind as well as soy sauce.

• Assessments of Ireland’s Green Larder by Margaret Hickey (London 2018)
• Macaroni and cheese: A case study in the condition of culinary historiography during the culture wars.

• A wonderful cookbook embedding a flawed premise: Jubilee and the antecedents of African American foodways.

• Observations on the Revival of British Techniques

• That’s my fun day: Sunday supper
• Another attempt at assessing the state of British foodways: An assessment of Pie Fidelity by Pete Brown.

• We revisit a visionary socialist who brews beer in rural Massachusetts.
• Some strange and wondrous drinks from 1939.
• Some rum.
• A note on the latest extension of the Jamesons brand.

• Ann Hood, hard times and the comfort of the kitchen.
• An Appreciation of Alex Toft Nielsen and his Cp44.

• The real, the surreal and the dirty: Perspectives on Colonial Williamsburg, anachronism, authenticity and pirate zombies.
• Notes on the state of Virginia foodways in the early national period.
• Two British cookbooks for wintertime: Buy them both.

• A note on Sandra Sherman’s Fresh From the Past , eighteenth century abundance, including further thoughts on pudding and Jeri Quinzio’s Pudding
• Four exemplary beers in the New England style

• A note on Irish Oyster Cuisine by Mairin Ui Chomain (Dublin 2004)

• Depredations historical and historiographical: A review of Hungry Empire by Lizzie Collingham
• A culinary destination in the West Village of Manhattan.
• A study in conflict and contradiction: Mark Bittman.

• Damp squib: “Nigel Slater’s chicken with butterbeans and rosemary.”
• A great divide: Mannered Northern ‘lads’ of culinary accomplishment and mundane musical meanderings.
• A study in conflict and contradiction: Mark Bittman.
• The Cook Book.
• Sea urchins from the stomachs of pigs, exploding chickens and lost food refound; the wide and wild British world of Dorothy Hartley featuring foraging.
• An anomalous name: Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book.

• The Cook Book.
• Sea urchins from the stomachs of pigs, exploding chickens and lost food refound; the wide and wild British world of Dorothy Hartley featuring foraging.
• An anomalous name: Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book.

• All in the Cooking: An icon of twentieth century Ireland.
• A note on Guinness Foreign Extra.
• A traveler’s note; the beer! the beer!...
  and books!, at Heathrow no less.
• A wolf gives a gift of coddle and champions the can.
• A return, of sorts, to historical form: The Plagiarist in the Kitchen by Jonathan Meades.

• An Appreciation, with modest reservations, of The New York Times, embedding a review of Flavour by Ruby Tandoh.

• Another neglected outlier: Victor Gordon and The English Cookbook.
• A maelstrom of food, sex and death featuring a few British derivations.

• Royal Oak, Cues Lane, Bishopstone, Wiltshire: A Review from our Rural Correspondent.

• Considering A History of Chowder: Four Centuries of a New England Meal.
• A note on Good Sandwiches and Picnic Dishes by Ambrose Heath, featuring a description of the Bookmaker.
• A kind of consideration of toast.

• The North remembers: Robert Owen Brown and the revival of Lancastrian cooking.

• Finding the middle way in high style at the Pint Shop in Cambridge, England.
• Narragansett ‘Allie’s Donuts Double Chocolate Porter.’
• The culinary oddity that is Cambridge, featuring a review of The Cambridgeshire Cook Book.

• Cognitive Cooking with Chef Watson: Recipes for innovation from IBM and the Institute of Culinary Education.
• A multicultural gem that beats the odds embedded in its genre: Edward Lee’s Smoke & Pickles: Recipes and Stories from a New Southern Kitchen.

• A review of the estimable Angeline in New Orleans, embedding two recipes for posset
• An Appreciation of canned fish, including considerations of Tin Fish Gourmet by Barbara-jo McIntosh and Rust by Jonathan Waldman.

• A boyish celebrity chef celebrates an illustrious forbear in The Pleasures of the Table: Rediscovering Theodora FitzGibbon by Donal Skehan.

• A Bible even the Editor could appreciate.
• Clarissa Dickson Wright does it again with The Haggis: A Little History.
• Our first monthly miscellany, being a book of surprises.
• Shameless PLUG: Buy the October issue of Petits Propos Culinaires.
• The global wanderings of marmalade featuring a melancholy note on American Exceptionalism.

• Shameless PLUG: Buy the October issue of Petits Propos Culinaires.
• Our first monthly miscellany, being a book of surprises.
• Some handy books for cooking savory pies (and one that is not so handy).
• Traditional Yorkshire Food
• An illustrated Appreciation of Hochstadter’s Slow & Low.

• An illustrated Appreciation of Hochstadter’s Slow & Low.
• The mysteries of Mrs. Framji’s chicken curry, or , an assay into microhistory, embedding a review of The Raj at Table by David Burton.
• Andrew Tobin samples summer ciders
• Pat Chapman remembers the kitchens of the Raj, partially by proxy.
• Our Political Correspondent reveals to the Editor that art follows the life of imperial Russia at Bob Bob Ricard in London

• Our Political Correspondent reveals to the Editor that art follows the life of imperial Russia at Bob Bob Ricard in London
• A note on Sandra Sherman’s Fresh From the Past, eighteenth century abundance, including further thoughts on pudding and Jeri Quinzio’s Pudding.
• A Feast of Ice & Fire: The Official Companion Cookbook to George R. R. Martin’s A Game of Thrones by Chelsea Monroe-Cassel & Sariann Lehrer
• Art and Appetite: American Painting, Culture, and Cuisine at the Art Institute of Chicago.

• Art and Appetite: American Painting, Culture, and Cuisine at the Art Institute of Chicago.
• Special bonus review: “Devouring Books” at the Ryerson Library of the Art Institute of Chicago.
• Beer (of a sort) in the City of Light
• Our Rural Correspondent heads north
  for jet and fish: A visit to Whitby.
• Owen & Engine extends the British beachhead in Chicago.
• The Vintage Tea Party Book by Angel Adoree, or: What if Tim Burton threw a tea party?
• The R’evolution starts now

• Beer (of a sort) in the City of Light
• Our Rural Correspondent heads north
  for jet and fish: A visit to Whitby.
• Owen & Engine extends the British beachhead in Chicago.
• The Vintage Tea Party Book by Angel Adoree, or: What if Tim Burton threw a tea party?
• The R’evolution starts now

• A new oyster bar and fish house in New Orleans: Pêche Seafood Grill.
• The R’evolution starts now
• New Orleans: A Food Biography is badly written, promotes anachronism and traduces the British culinary tradition.

• The Churchill Tavern: Romance and ruin in midtown south
• The fall and rise of the Irish cheese.
• Downton Abbey and the drive for ratings, featuring a review of the Unofficial Downton Abbey Cookbook by Emily Ansara Baines.
  

• Nostra culpa redeemed, perhaps, by some advice about celery.
• An Appreciation of British Soups
• A note on cooking with beer, including reviews of Beer and Vittles by Elizabeth Craig and Beer and Skittles by Richard Boston.
• Ferry Plaza Seafood and the Hog Island Oyster Company: Two oyster bars at the San Francisco Ferry Terminal and a note about clam soup on the west coast.

• Our Graduate Correspondent visits Los Angeles and gets some surprises, including Ye Olde King’s Head.
• A raucous evening of Restoration Comedy.
• Our annual roundup of noteworthy books.
• Our Rural Correspondent visits The Anchor in Oxford.
• Our Rural Correspondent somehow finds
  The Oxford Arms
• The resilient British brewing tradition: Eight transatlantic case studies.

• The global wanderings of marmalade featuring a melancholy note on American Exceptionalism.
• The resilient British brewing tradition: Eight transatlantic case studies.

• The Standard Tap in Philadelphia; Yards and other ales in cask.
• The rise and rise of rhubarb, including some recommended products.

• An unexpected delight: Canteen.
• A vindication of sorts for Midwestern beer.
• A bagel by any other name?
• Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.

• Oysters in a Little Town.
• Three Men, a Diary and a Dog or riverine and pooterish fare from our Rural Correspondent, being the return of our occasional series on food in books.
• Tracks, Penn Station: the other train station oyster bar in New York
• Imitation and innovation at Shaw’s Crab House.
• An unlikely pilgrimage to the Matunuck Oyster Bar.
• Failure in New Orleans, or, the demise of Desire.
• Oysters at Lüke in New Orleans.
• An enduring if annoying New York legend; the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal.
• Oysters at Randall & Aubin in London.
• Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.

• Imitation and innovation at Shaw’s Crab House.
• An unlikely pilgrimage to the Matunuck Oyster Bar.
• Failure in New Orleans, or, the demise of Desire.
• Oysters at Lüke in New Orleans.
• An enduring if annoying New York legend; the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal.
• Oysters at Randall & Aubin in London.
• Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.
• A review of two books on oysters that follow different paths, featuring a digression on the lifestyle of the fortunate oyster.

• Two contrasting cookbooks hot off the press, from April Bloomfield and Brian Yarvin.
• Bon Appétit climbs our Wall of Shame and publishes some good recipes in the process.
• A tale of two critiques: Our Rural Correspondent considers Tender by Nigel Slater.

• Bon Appétit climbs our Wall of Shame and publishes some good recipes in the process.
• Wall of Shame special bonus item: Ruth Reichl resorts to unfortunate phrasing in Saveur.
• The West Town Tavern in Chicago continues to thrive and thrill, with a little help from Becker Lane Organic Farm.
• A cautionary tale from Publican in Chicago.

• Wall of Shame special bonus item: Ruth Reichl resorts to unfortunate phrasing in Saveur.
• Is There an Irish Cuisine?
• Wall of Shame
• Go to Gravy, but only for Mr. Hollins and the food.

• Go to Gravy, but only for Mr. Hollins and the food.
• North and south in both geography and metaphor, or a review of Northern Hospitality: Cooking by the Book in New England by Keith Stavely & Kathleen Fitzgerald
• The soul of a vanished world; a restaurant review of Husk in Charleston, South Carolina.

• Perfidious Albion: A restaurant review.
• A review of A History of English Food by Clarissa Dickson Wright and its reviewers
• Roast beef, ovens and spits; or, all that’s old is new again.

• A review of two new books, on milk and on beer: Which would you choose?
• Punting and Eating in Oxford: The Cherwell Boathouse

• A review of two new books, on milk and on beer: Which would you choose?
• Punting and Eating in Oxford: The Cherwell Boathouse
• Pizza Delivery: Elizabeth David, Rabbits, Kirsch, and More

• Notes from Canada on How to Cook Fish: Canadian Fish Cook Book
• Of Plumbers’ Flares and Flambéed Pears:

• Phoebe Dinsmore and the Editor visit a struggling British outpost in New Orleans: Feast.
• Beer in London
• An appreciation of Westerhall rum

• Beer in London
• An appreciation of Westerhall rum

• A Review of Tea & Sympathy, NYC
• A note on some cheeses… from New Jersey

• Wartime Cookery, featuring not only imposters but also erotomania
• It left a bad taste: The Editor considers The Taste of War: World War Two and the Battle for Food by Lizzie Collingham
• The Curmudgeonly Raconteur doubles down on St. John with the Editor.

• A review of At Elizabeth David’s Table and the consequent award of our first Ally.
• The Curmudgeonly Raconteur doubles down on St. John with the Editor.
• Two Museum Exhibits and The Ministry of Food by Jane Fearnley-Whittingstall

• An Appreciation of British Soups
• Phoebe Dinsmore and a friend enter the Wayback Machine to visit Henry Public
• Our Guest Historian Reads Lark Rise

• Andrew Edmunds in the kitchen and on the page
• Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen: A reappraisal four decades on.

• Andrew Edmunds in the kitchen and on the page
• Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen: A reappraisal four decades on.

• Harrods Book of Traditional English Cookery

• We return to Clerkenwell in strength, and this time for dinner.

• A review of Edwardian Glamour Cooking (Without Tears)
• The Doctor in the (Victorian) Kitchen

• Notes from Canada on How to Cook Fish: Canadian Fish Cook Book
• An Appreciation of Wheelers

• A Review of Great British Food from Canteen, and Pig: King of the Southern Table by James Villas
• A Discussion of Cheese Straws

• Foragers, fine food and more, encountered on television and in Cheltenham
• Our French Correspondent Visits The Breslin

• Ski the east
• Shipshape and Bristol fashion: A very honest cookbook review

• The Albion - A restaurant review
• Bars in Bristol

• An Introduction to Elizabeth David
• Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen
• A new British block of New York: West 10 Street
• A Review of Two Good Books
• College cuisine

• A Note on The Economist
• The Financial Times and the Art of Eating, or Good Taste is No Fun.
• A Case Study in Branding: the Conglomeration of Mark Hix (with Restaurant Review of Hix Oyster & Chop House)

• British Charcuterie by Jennie Reekie
• Corrigans Mayfair - Restaurant Review

• Double Crown - Restaurant Review
• How bad is Guinness 250?
• Transatlantic Transgressions: The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.

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