The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.72
FALL/WINTER2023

Green soup

Green soup from Devon Dishes is remarkable in its eighteenth century resemblance to New Orleanian gumbo z’herbes. Different culture traditionally have found similar solutions to seasonality. A refreshing “Soop Meagre” suitable for vegetarians but not vegans. Precise proportions are neither specified nor necessary.

collard-greens.jpg“Take a large Handfull of Beat leaves, some Sorrel Leaves, & Charvell, Young Onyons (Endiff & Salary when in Season) fry all these together in a Pipkin in some fresh Butter, then pour boiling water to make it as thin as you like, afterwards beat the Yolks of three Eggs with a little Flower & a little Butter & Nutmeg, put them into the Soop stiring them over the Fire for the space of a Minute least they should be burned then serve it up with as much Bread as you please.”

Notes:

-A pipkin is (was) an earthenware pot for use over an open fire. Any heavy pot will do.

-Capitalization and spelling are not yet uniform in the eighteenth century.  Beat leaves are beet greens, Charvell chervil, Endiff endive, Salary celery and Flower flour (choose Wondra if you have it).

-As the recipe indicates, the amount of water (any species of stock would be better if you have some) and as the recipe should infer, the number of egg yolks is a matter of personal taste.

-The real danger is not burning the soup but rather curdling the yolk intended to thicken it so take pains not to boil it after their addition.