Horseradish ice cream for cold salmon

Horseradish ice cream for cold salmon from Devon Dishes is an eighteenth century precursor to postmodern molecular cuisine, and better than most modern iterations of the form.

“Grate very fine 8 large sticks of horse radish and put into it three table spoonfuls of white chile vinegar, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard and a gill of good cream, a gill of good white sauce seasoned with a little cayenne, some salt and a very little white sugar. Then freeze the sauce as ice cream and serve.”

Notes:

• Figure on about a cup of grated horseradish.
• You may need to make your own chili vinegar. It is easy: Steep some chilis of your choice in white vinegar for a week or so.
• A gill equals four ounces.
• Recipes for white sauce are simple and legion. A number of them appear at our recipes. One fluid version; make a roux of equal amounts butter and flour, add a splash of acid, then stir in milk and stock.