NO.72
FALL/WINTER2023
Our Archive
No.71, Spring 2023
A Romantic Number featuring Discussion of Dinner, Derrida and other Things
A Romantic Number featuring Discussion of Dinner, Derrida and other Things
- in the critical
- Factual fiction, featuring strange birds, narcotics, romantic foodways, a quack doctor and Things: Part 1 of 3.
- in the lyrical
- A note on tiffin.
- An Appreciation of The Queen’s College, Oxford.
- Maritime miscellany.
- in the practical
- Grilled chicken marinated in honey, lime and spice.
- Esheperds’ Pie
- Sind Club ham in gin
- Cabbage with peas
- Himalayan Cheese on Toast Recipe
- Calcutta tangled cabbage
- Chocolate tiffin
No.70, Fall 2022
A Number of Infelicities featuring Oysters and the Apocalypse, along with Thanksgiving from Our Archive
A Number of Infelicities featuring Oysters and the Apocalypse, along with Thanksgiving from Our Archive
- in the critical
- A rueful response.
- Harrods Book of Traditional English Cookery
- in the lyrical
- A consideration of Charlotte Du Cann, featuring fashion, fine art, food, sex and Dark Mountain.
- Unsung icon: Elisabeth Ayrton and English mores within and beyond the kitchen.
- An Appreciation of Plimoth Plantation and James Deetz
- Thanksgiving, Italian-American Style
- A new Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- Talking Turkey
- in the practical
- A note on steak & oyster tartare, with a recipe.
- Beef brisket stuffed with bacon, oysters and parsley
- A couple of creative consommés featuring shellfish (or not).
- Oysters with apples and black pudding
- An ancient English sauce of oysters
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Turkey bread pudding
- Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
- Seethed mussels
- Theodora FitzGibbon’s Brussels sprouts.
- A Brussels sprout salad
- Brussels sprouts with horseradish and bacon.
- Brussels sprouts and chestnuts.
- Pumpkin time
- Autumn Pudding
No.69, Spring 2022
A Number of Infelicities featuring Beef, Beans, Oysters and the Apocalypse
A Number of Infelicities featuring Beef, Beans, Oysters and the Apocalypse
- in the critical
- A rueful response.
- in the lyrical
- A consideration of Charlotte Du Cann, featuring fashion, fine art, food, sex and Dark Mountain.
- Occasional Miscellany: The lost soups of Belfast.
- Unsung icon: Elisabeth Ayrton and English mores within and beyond the kitchen.
- in the practical
- Double or nothing roast beef
- Steak pies sauced with Madeira
- Potted beef.
- A note on steak & oyster tartare, with a recipe.
- A nineteenth century recipe for beef boiled in beer from Elisabeth Ayrton.
- Beef brisket stuffed with bacon, oysters and parsley
- Sussex stewed steak
- A couple of creative consommés featuring shellfish (or not).
- BFIA baked beans with orange zest
- A stovetop version of British baked beans.
- Oysters with apples and black pudding
- An ancient English sauce of oysters
No.68, Fall 2021
A Number of Noteworthy Women
A Number of Noteworthy Women
- in the critical
- Old School home cooks in Oxfordshire and its hilly environs.
- A tale of two Scottish cities.
- in the lyrical
- Occasional miscellany: Tomato soup cake.
- A rural childhood in interwar Oxfordshire: An Appreciation of Mollie Harris and A Kind of Magic
- Unsung icon: Elisabeth Ayrton and English mores within and beyond the kitchen.
- An instructive ode to clarified milk punch from Christian Isobel Johnstone.
- in the practical
- Notes on curing ham from Christian Isobel Johnstone, two French interlopers, Theodora FitzGibbon, David Tanis and, well, us.
- A smaller scale homecured alternative to traditional British ham.
- A clanger from Chipping Camden in the Cotswolds.
- Liver and bacon
- Mincemeat cake
- Raspberry rover
- Mrs. Johnstone’s Anchovy Sauce, including a nod to Mrs. Grigson and her hopes for the revival of melted butter.
- Sir Morton O’Doherty’s devilled ham
No.67, Spring/Summer 2021
A Number of Miscellanies
A Number of Miscellanies
- in the critical
- Occasional Miscellany, or, disparate approaches to adversity and the egg.
- in the lyrical
- Occasional miscellany, or, Never buy a dead lobster: The strange enough life and kitchen of Daisy Breaux, along with notes on Oliver Herbert, a pair of midcentury originals.
- A Piscine Miscellany
- Jamaican Miscellany, along with a good recipe for shrimp.
- Poetic miscellany
- in the practical
- Daisy Breaux’ ‘Calhoun Concoction’
- A robust fast and easy ‘omelet’ from Elisabeth Ayrton that does not require the dreaded tilt, flip and roll.
- A simplified Lancashire hotpot from Elisabeth Ayrton.
- A satanic dinner on the fly from Time is of the Essence, including a detour through The Prawn Cocktail Years .
- Sussex stewed steak
- Lamb chops with kidney and bacon
- ‘Status Stew’ from the cookbook “for people who cannot cook and do not want other people to know it.”
- Mackerel Prepared Many Ways
No.66, Winter 2021
A Number of Historical Figures, featuring Bostonian Foodways
A Number of Historical Figures, featuring Bostonian Foodways
- in the critical
- A flight, at intervals unfortunately of fancy, through the development of American foodways through the examination of some influential figures via Women in the Kitchen by Anne Willan and featuring a pirate of exquisite mind as well as soy sauce.
- in the lyrical
- A note on Boston brown bread.
- A note on a stubborn resistance to Yankee foodways.
- in the practical
- Fannie Farmer’s Boston brown bread
- Classic English Curried Shrimp from Locke-Ober
- Fanny Farmer’s ‘English Monkey’
- A veal and parsley pie from Maria Eliza Rundell
- Fannie Farmer’s third bread
- Potted Salmon
- Mary Lincoln’s thirded bread
- Boston Brown Bread from Townsman
No.65, Fall 2020
A Number of Anomalies
A Number of Anomalies
- in the critical
- Assessments of Ireland’s Green Larder by Margaret Hickey (London 2018)
- Macaroni and cheese: A case study in the condition of culinary historiography during the culture wars.
- in the lyrical
- An Appreciation of inconsistency
- Special bonus double entendre miscellany: It’s a crock, not a wheel.
- in the practical
- Cheese pudding
- Beef cheese
- The potter’s products; a select sample of eleven recipes from Pottery by A Potter.
- The BFIA macaroni and cheese recipe
- Brown bread.
- Roast chicken an Irish way.
- Dublin coddle.
- Pork ciste.
No.64, Summer 2020
A Non-English Number (or Maybe Not)
A Non-English Number (or Maybe Not)
- in the critical
- A wonderful cookbook embedding a flawed premise: Jubilee and the antecedents of African American foodways.
- in the lyrical
- An Appreciation of Hugh Acheson
- An alternative to Alcoholics Anonymous from Robert Roberts.
- Double bonus occasional miscellany: The cult of orange, Fly Girls and a Smart Aleck.
- A photoessay for a time of plagues: Fons Americanus.
- in the practical
- Roast lamb larded with orange peel
- Mrs. J. L. Lane’s breast of lamb with orange stuffing
- The BFIA macaroni and cheese recipe
- Mrs. J. L. Lane’s orange sauce for game
- BFIA baked beans with orange zest
- Orange ketchup
- Green pease with orange sauce
- An orange compound butter for fish from Pottery by A. Potter
- Watercress and orange salad
- An exceptional mustard based on a formula from Robert Roberts.
- ‘Renato Syllabubs’
- Mrs. Lane’s orange fool from 1909
- Burnt cream with tea.
- Robin McDouall’s roast duck with orange stuffing
No.63, Winter/Spring 2020
A Number of London Clubs along with A Gentleman Farmer
A Number of London Clubs along with A Gentleman Farmer
- in the critical
- Observations on the Revival of British Techniques
- in the lyrical
- A note on London clubland past and present.
- The duke’s (or devil’s) spawn: Beef Wellington and its twentieth century mutations
- Cooking with Worcestershire, featuring an Appreciation of Marcel Boulestin.
- in the practical
- Robin McDouall’s roast duck with orange stuffing
- Boulestin’s layered salmon terrine from Robin McDouall via Clubland Cooking.
- Brooks’s pie
- Travellers Pie from Clubland Cooking by Robin McDouall
- Smoked trout mousse from Robin McDouall’s Clubland Cooking.
- Robin McDouall’s bread sauce from Clubland Cooking
- Boiled mutton
- Robin McDouall on clubland vegetables along with four bonus recipes
- Robin McDouall’s devilled chicken
- Steak pies sauced with Madeira
- A nineteenth century recipe for beef boiled in beer from Elisabeth Ayrton.
No.62, Fall 2019
Our 10th Anniversary Number, featuring Pie & Prejudice
Our 10th Anniversary Number, featuring Pie & Prejudice
- in the critical
- Another attempt at assessing the state of British foodways: An assessment of Pie Fidelity by Pete Brown.
- That’s my fun day: Sunday supper
- in the lyrical
- Festive miscellany: Robin McDouall on the secular and profane pleasures and pitfalls of Christmas.
- A new dawn? The New York Times begins to recognize British foodways while its reporters engage in the timeless art of culinary innovation.
- Arawak, African and English settlers on Barbados: The origins of Bajan food.
- Food at sea in the age of fighting sail
- in the practical
- Caerphilly with leeks, mustard and ale.
- Caerphilly with leeks, mustard and heavy cream.
- Canape Windsor
- Croute Windsor
- Robin McDouall’s devilled chicken
- Devilled kidneys and something from the Gulf of Mexico via the North Sea (not oil).
- Hot devilled crab
- Rosie Sykes’ devilled chicken livers
- Roast lamb larded with orange peel
- The Rabbit Variations
No.61, Summer 2019
A Number of Drinks for Summer
A Number of Drinks for Summer
- in the critical
- We revisit a visionary socialist who brews beer in rural Massachusetts.
- Some strange and wondrous drinks from 1939.
- Some rum.
- A note on the latest extension of the Jamesons brand.
- in the lyrical
- A note on the natures and welcome revival of punch.
- On the mystery of English milk punch.
- Ambrose Heath and olive oil during wartime lead us to question some conventional wisdom concerning the insularity of the island kitchen.
- in the practical
- The cure(s), or, some bloody episodes.
- The soft tomato cocktails of Ambrose Heath transformed into Bloody Marys by the addition of vodka
- Arrack and Port milk punch with tea.
- Benjamin Franklin’s clarified milk punch.
- The britishfoodinamerica milk punch.
- The Escoffier milk punch (with a comment) by Ambrose Heath.
- Ambrose Heath’s Norfolk milk punch.
No.60, Spring 2019
A Southern Number featuring Mobilian Madness
A Southern Number featuring Mobilian Madness
- in the critical
- Ann Hood, hard times and the comfort of the kitchen.
- An Appreciation of Alex Toft Nielsen and his Cp44.
- in the lyrical
- Confusion now has made her masterpiece: Eugene Walter, his cult of Mobilian chaos and some descriptions of southern foodways.
- An Appreciation of Laurie Colwin.
- in the practical
- Eugene Walter’s ‘ham pate’
- A characteristic British potted cheese that Eugene Walter calls ‘cheese spread’ and claims for the American south.
- Eugene Walter’s ‘chicken custard’ that is really a British batter pudding.
- Eugene Walter’s ‘goober toast.’
- Eugene Walter’s steak and kidney pie
- A southern expression of curried shrimp and lemon rice to enhance it.
- A British lamb pie that Eugene Walter misnames Mobilian.
- A spring chicken from an unlikely source.
- White gingerbread.
- Laurie Colwin’s Spiced Walnuts
No.59, Winter 2019
A Winter Number Featuring Questions of Authenticity
A Winter Number Featuring Questions of Authenticity
- in the critical
- The real, the surreal and the dirty: Perspectives on Colonial Williamsburg, anachronism, authenticity and pirate zombies.
- Notes on the state of Virginia foodways in the early national period.
- Two British cookbooks for wintertime: Buy them both.
- in the lyrical
- Occasional Miscellany: The Peter Pauper Press and its Merrie Christmas Drink Book
- in the practical
- Winter’s Kedgeree
- Crawfish soup
- Watercress soup
- Crabmeat maison
- Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock’s shrimp paste
- Mushroom bread pudding.
- Gingered pot roast
- Ham baked in cider with parsley sauce.
- Ham in Madiera
- Cocktail Recipes from The Peter Pauper Press
No.58, Fall 2018
A Number of 18th Century Notions
A Number of 18th Century Notions
- in the critical
- A note on Sandra Sherman’s Fresh From the Past , eighteenth century abundance, including further thoughts on pudding and Jeri Quinzio’s Pudding
- Four exemplary beers in the New England style
- in the lyrical
- Occasional Miscellany: A note on dining, drinking and whoring at college in early New England
- in the practical
- Rabbits, rarebits, toasted cheese and an artifact
- The Rabbit Variations
- Cider cured ham
- An eighteenth century dish of smothered duck
- Eighteenth century Norfolk pudding
- An eighteenth century apple pie
- An eighteenth century dish of pork with onions and mustard from Elizabeth Cleland.
No.57, Summer 2018
Our Second Irish Number
Our Second Irish Number
- in the critical
- A note on Irish Oyster Cuisine by Mairin Ui Chomain (Dublin 2004)
- in the lyrical
- A tale of two, Irish, cities.
- In search of the elusive but resilient Snaffles mousse with an Appreciation of Lady Mollie Cusack Smith.
- Complexity, contradiction and horse trading: An Irish journey both historical and familial.
- in the practical
- Chicken with colcannon, black pudding fricassee and whisky sauce.
- Mary Cannon’s recipe for beef cheek
- Oyster stew from an early eighteenth century Irish kitchen manuscript.
- A good early modern sauce for fish from Mary Cannon’s Commonplace Book , edited with commentary by Marjorie Quarton.
- A recipe for Scotch oysters from an Irish source
- Oysters with apples and black pudding
- Calf’s liver with Sherry and smoked paprika
- Mushroom and brandy soup from the Ulster Reform Club.
- The bfia variation on parsnip soup from the Ulster Reform Club.
- Snaffles mousse
- Lady Mollie Cusack Smith’s Bermingham chicken
- Pollo alla Toscana
No.56, Spring 2018
A Number of British Foods in America
A Number of British Foods in America
- in the critical
- Depredations historical and historiographical: A review of Hungry Empire by Lizzie Collingham
- A culinary destination in the West Village of Manhattan.
- A study in conflict and contradiction: Mark Bittman.
- in the lyrical
- A visionary socialist brews beer in rural Massachusetts.
- An Appreciation of Trader Joe’s.
- in the practical
- The Britishfoodinamerica raised pork pie
- A counterintuitively quick recipe for ‘slow’ roasted pork belly with apples, cider, onion and sage.
- Pork Roast in New Milk--Fit for Company
- Lamb stuffed with oysters
- Roast pork chops with rhubarb sauce and sage butter.
- Salmon baked with a smear of English mustard, malt vinegar and herbs.
- A dish of boiled lamb from Pint Shop in Cambridge, England.
- Boiled Fresh Ham
- Boiled Daisy Ham with Vegetables
No.55, Winter 2017
A Number of Inconsistencies
A Number of Inconsistencies
- in the critical
- A great divide: Mannered Northern ‘lads’ of culinary accomplishment and mundane musical meanderings.
- A study in conflict and contradiction: Mark Bittman.
- Damp squib: “Nigel Slater’s chicken with butterbeans and rosemary.”
- The Cook Book.
- Sea urchins from the stomachs of pigs, exploding chickens and lost food refound; the wide and wild British world of Dorothy Hartley featuring foraging.
- An anomalous name: Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book.
- in the lyrical
- A note on spruce beer.
- Occasional miscellany: A Cookbook for Booksellers.
- Sign of the times.
- Cooking with Worcestershire, featuring an Appreciation of Marcel Boulestin.
- in the practical
- Roast pork chops with rhubarb sauce and sage butter.
- Salmon baked with a smear of English mustard, malt vinegar and herbs.
- Black pudding hash and eggs.
- Yorkshire buck.
- ‘Smoked’ ketchup
- Weeknight chicken with butter beans, a recipe derived from Nigel Slater.
- The Fortnum & Mason Threepenny Mary cocktail for the holidays
- Parsnips baked with sausage and cheese.
- Elisabeth Ayrton’s game with beans
- Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
- Boulestin’s Maltese curry with Worcestershire.
- Boulestin’s duck with brandy, claret and port
No.54, Fall 2017
A Number of Cook Books, featuring The Cook Book
A Number of Cook Books, featuring The Cook Book
- in the critical
- The Cook Book.
- Sea urchins from the stomachs of pigs, exploding chickens and lost food refound; the wide and wild British world of Dorothy Hartley featuring foraging.
- An anomalous name: Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book.
- in the lyrical
- Sign of the times.
- A popular dressing for salad from the early nineteenth century, rendered in verse by Sydney Smith and cited by Jane Grigson.
- in the practical
- Robin McDouall’s tomato ice.
- “Canapés Ivanhoe”
- Jane Grigson’s Lettuce soup
- Curried parsnip soup
- Parsnips baked with sausage and cheese.
- Elisabeth Ayrton’s game with beans
- Fortnum & Mason’s rabbit potted in duck fat
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- Theodora FitzGibbon’s Brussels sprouts.
- Curried onions
No.53, Summer 2017
A Number of Bars & Beers, Some of Them Irish
A Number of Bars & Beers, Some of Them Irish
- in the critical
- A note on Guinness Foreign Extra.
- A traveler’s note; the beer! the beer!...
and books!, at Heathrow no less. - A wolf gives a gift of coddle and champions the can.
- A return, of sorts, to historical form: The Plagiarist in the Kitchen by Jonathan Meades.
- All in the Cooking: An icon of twentieth century Ireland.
- in the lyrical
- More than the dude abides, at least in Dublin if no longer in Bolton across the Irish Sea, being a meditation on Neary’s and Flann O’Brien, with a digression on the first Bloomsday.
- Flann O’Brien hits it out: “Workman’s Friend” revisited.
- in the practical
- Barm Brack
- Dublin coddle.
- Soda bread
- Lax pudding.
- Jonathan Meades’ smoked haddock soup.
- An Irish recipe for curried butter beans from All in the Cooking.
- Irish curry sauce adapted from All in the Cooking
- Dry cured spiced beef based on a recipe from Jane Grigson via Elizabeth David.
- Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
- A stolen Lancashire hotpot
No.52, Spring 2017
Another Northern Number, in Which We Return to Tourtière, and featuring Insular Foodways
Another Northern Number, in Which We Return to Tourtière, and featuring Insular Foodways
- in the critical
- An Appreciation, with modest reservations, of The New York Times, embedding a review of Flavour by Ruby Tandoh.
- in the lyrical
- Island life: A note on the traditional foodways of Shetland and Orkney.
- A note on some simple puddings even by the standards of Shetland, including some simple recipes
- in the practical
- Alice Bradley’s anchovy savories, which she calls canapes.
- Ruby Tandoh’s favorite chicken pie
- Ruby Tandoh’s fish pie.
- Margaret Stout’s ingenious salt cod pie
- Sassermaet clatch
- Shetland saucermeat
- Saucermeat bronies
- Orkney pork and kale
- Steamed mince pudding
- Shetland puddeens
- Ruby Tandoh’s gingerbread laced with porter
- Bread sauce
- A clam soup from the Hebrides.
- Tourtiere
No.51, Winter 2016
A Number of Revivals & Reinventions,
featuring Oxtail and Treacle
A Number of Revivals & Reinventions,
featuring Oxtail and Treacle
- in the critical
- Another neglected outlier: Victor Gordon and The English Cookbook.
- A maelstrom of food, sex and death featuring a few British derivations.
- in the lyrical
- In (admittedly predictable) praise of public houses, their food and their habitués.
- Occasional Miscellany: Strange bedfellows and Scottish tradition in an unexpected guise.
- in the practical
- A nineteenth century recipe for beef boiled in beer and treacle from Elisabeth Ayrton.
- Victor Gordon’s fried barley from The English Cookbook.
- Devilled pork chops from Victor Gordon’s English Cookbook.
- Imperial swine.
- An “utterly inauthentic” maritime kedgeree.
- Oxtail stew with clove and orange.
- Mulled artichokes
- Oxtail brawn derived from a Victor Gordon recipe.
- Devilled shrimp sauce.
- An Upper Peninsula pasty from Jacob Taylor of Marquette, Michigan.
- Victor Gordon’s “essential salamagundy.”
- Victor Gordon’s “trout and berries.”
- Watercress terrine
No.50, Fall 2016
A Number of Eccentrics & Eccentricities featuring Hybrids
A Number of Eccentrics & Eccentricities featuring Hybrids
- in the critical
- Royal Oak, Cues Lane, Bishopstone, Wiltshire: A Review from our Rural Correspondent.
- in the lyrical
- Letting Jules Verne down: Round the World in Eighty Dishes and its redemptive descendant.
- All that’s old is new again yet again: An Appreciation of Grace Firth, a twentieth century practitioner of the artisanal revival.
- in the practical
- A lamb, lemon and cilantro ciste.
- An unconventional dish of curried scallops from the Editor.
- Stillroom Cookery boiled beef with carrots and horseradish.
- Curried beer meatballs
- Eggs coddled in beer.
- Stillroom spiced beef.
- Beer cake.
- A stovetop version of British baked beans.
- Pickled rhubarb.
- Bombay bubble & squeak
- In praise of punch, and an outstanding (!!!!) if costly flavored rum, featuring a recipe--for punch, which pirates like(d).
- ‘Ball’ curry, incorporating notions from Henrietta Hervey, Copeland Marks, the Indo-Dutch “fricadellee” and other sources but not involving testicles.
- Country Captain
- The bfia chicken fricassee
- Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
- A formula for 1793 Charleston Light Dragoons’ punch.
- Rumbledethumps
- Beef shank and oyster stew with Port.
No.49, Summer 2016
A Summer Number of Sandwiches and Soup,
featuring Enquiries into Origin
A Summer Number of Sandwiches and Soup,
featuring Enquiries into Origin
- in the critical
- Considering A History of Chowder: Four Centuries of a New England Meal.
- A note on Good Sandwiches and Picnic Dishes by Ambrose Heath, featuring a description of the Bookmaker.
- A kind of consideration of toast.
- in the lyrical
- In defense of John Montagu, creator of the sandwich and so much more.
- A note about the superiority of the English sandwich, featuring recipes along with praise for The London Ritz Book of Afternoon Tea, along with other attractions, one of them less savory.
- Occasional miscellany: All that’s old is new again.
- in the practical
- Cod chowder.
- Clear Rhode Island chowder.
- A clam soup from the Hebrides.
- An eccentric shrimp soup laced with rum.
- June Platt’s Puffed Boston Common Crackers
- Curried crackers.
- Cucumber and egg sandwiches from the Savoy hotel.
- Tomato sandwiches.
- Smoked salmon and whisky sandwiches from the London Ritz.
- Michael Smith’s lettuce sandwiches
- Ambrose Heath’s English meatballs.
- Helen Simpson’s mayonnaise from the London Ritz.
- Sardine sandwiches
- Michael Smith’s tomato curry and orange butter.
- Tuna and bacon sandwiches from Ambrose Heath.
- Fast potted ham with piccalilli.
- Ambrose Heath’s ‘Beef a la Wellington’ sandwich filling.
No.48, Spring 2016
A Northern Number
A Northern Number
- in the critical
- The North remembers: Robert Owen Brown and the revival of Lancastrian cooking.
- in the lyrical
- It happened in Vermont: An unlikely time and place of publication.
- Found in California via Surrey, the American south and even New England, and a note on Row 34 in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
- in the practical
- Chicken with cucumber.
- A Northern terrine of liver and black pudding.
- Pork chops with piccalilli
- An African-American kidney pie by way of Britain.
- Veal kidneys, simply fried by Edna Lewis.
- A liver pudding that resembles English haslet from the African-American south.
- Edna Lewis’s panfried oysters.
- Edna Lewis’s skillet scallions
- Robert Owen Brown’s Lancashire baked eggs
- Robert Owen Brown’s smoked mackerel with blue cheese, spinach and potatoes.
- A rag pudding from Robert Owen Brown and its surprising variation.
No.47, Winter 2015
A Wintry Number featuring Cambridge
A Wintry Number featuring Cambridge
- in the critical
- Finding the middle way in high style at the Pint Shop in Cambridge, England.
- Narragansett ‘Allie’s Donuts Double Chocolate Porter.’
- The culinary oddity that is Cambridge, featuring a review of The Cambridgeshire Cook Book.
- in the lyrical
- Shameless plug; buy Petits Propos Culinaires 104.
- A note on Cambridge sausages.
- A note about English spiced beef and the mystery of its American origins.
- An Appreciation of Richard Bradley and , in an unconventional way, of ketchup.
- in the practical
- A dish of boiled lamb from Pint Shop in Cambridge, England.
- Slow roasted spiced lamb from the Shelford Delicatessen outside Cambridge, England.
- Francatelli’s Cambridge sausage pudding.
- Short ribs with ale and treacle.
- Pork and asparagus pie.
- Dry cured spiced beef based on a recipe from Jane Grigson via Elizabeth David.
- Spiced beef based on Henry Sarson’s robust wartime wet cure.
- An innovative spiced beef recipe that borrows its technique but not its spicing from Danny Bowien.
- Richard Bradley’s instructions “To boil Fresh Salmon.”
- Jane Grigson’s Crème Brûlée, which really is burnt cream.
- A modernist dish of liver and bacon from 1732 via Richard Bradley.
- Rum and Madeira ketchup
- Richard Bradley’s red bean ketchup, which is really not ketchup but is really good
No.46, Fall 2015
Our Fifth Anniversary Number, Featuring Figures Past and Future, and Ketchup
Our Fifth Anniversary Number, Featuring Figures Past and Future, and Ketchup
- in the critical
- A multicultural gem that beats the odds embedded in its genre: Edward Lee’s Smoke & Pickles: Recipes and Stories from a New Southern Kitchen.
- Cognitive Cooking with Chef Watson: Recipes for innovation from IBM and the Institute of Culinary Education.
- in the lyrical
- An appreciation of Vincent Price and his last film.
- Uses and abuses of history, philosophy and cookery: A case study of Hannah Woolley.
- An Appreciation of Richard Bradley and , in an unconventional way, of ketchup.
- in the practical
- Rum and Madeira ketchup
- An eighteenth century ketchup for ship captains from the iconic Hannah Glasse.
- Fast potted salmon
- A modernist dish of liver and bacon from 1732 via Richard Bradley.
- A better tomato ketchup, from Oxford, Mississippi
- Edward Lee’s curry pork pies
- Strawberry ketchup
- Cucumber ketchup
- Richard Bradley’s red bean ketchup, which is really not ketchup but is really good
- Lemon ketchup, “or pickle.”
- Edward Lee’s cured strawberries
No.45, Summer 2015
A Number of Bloomsbury Fancies -
Culinary, Erotic & Otherwise
A Number of Bloomsbury Fancies -
Culinary, Erotic & Otherwise
- in the critical
- A review of the estimable Angeline in New Orleans, embedding two recipes for posset
- An Appreciation of canned fish, including considerations of Tin Fish Gourmet by Barbara-jo McIntosh and Rust by Jonathan Waldman.
- in the lyrical
- British food between the wars, in city, country and neither place, featuring the habits culinary, artistic and amorous of Bloomsbury.
- in the practical
- David Garnett’s liver, sage and onion skuets
- Elizabeth Raper Grant’s pork marinated in Madeira
- Elizabeth Raper Grant’s eighteenth century “sauce for any meat broiled on spits” or otherwise roasted
- Mrs. Grant’s ‘anchovie tosts’
- Bloody cod
- A spread of ‘Whales’ fashioned from canned sardines
- Sardine and blue cheese sandwiches
- Canned peas cooked with bacon and lettuce
No.44, Spring 2015
A Sort of Archeological Number
A Sort of Archeological Number
- in the critical
- A boyish celebrity chef celebrates an illustrious forbear in The Pleasures of the Table: Rediscovering Theodora FitzGibbon by Donal Skehan.
- in the lyrical
- The Rescue Archaeologists: Florence White, Helen Edden, Raymond Postgate and the salvation of British foodways, featuring an excursion to the lost prewar world of Sweden.
- Our Rural Correspondent sails into history aboard the Empress of Canada.
- in the practical
- Westmoreland three deckers
- Theodora FitzGibbon’s variations on the devilled egg.
- An unexpected stuffing of beef for birds.
- Theodora FitzGibbon’s Brussels sprouts.
- Pork ciste.
- Theodora FitzGibbon’s ham in Guinness with apple sauce
- Theodora FitzGibbon’s devilled steak and kidney stew or pie
- Theodora FitzGibbon’s ‘stuffed’ pork chops.
- An unconventional dish of curried scallops from the Editor
- Our Rural Correspondent’s recipe for Kidneys Turbigo
- Observations and variations on Worcestershire and its permutations, highlighting three recipes.
- Mushroom ketchup.
- White gingerbread
No.43, Winter 2014
Our First Scottish Number
Our First Scottish Number
- in the critical
- A Bible even the Editor could appreciate.
- Clarissa Dickson Wright does it again with The Haggis: A Little History.
- Our first monthly miscellany, being a book of surprises.
- Shameless PLUG: Buy the October issue of Petits Propos Culinaires.
- The global wanderings of marmalade featuring a melancholy note on American Exceptionalism.
- in the lyrical
- A culinary imponderable: The Scottish aversion to pork, featuring a vivisection of ‘The Riddle of the Scottish Pig’ by Eric Ross.
- An Appreciation of Belhaven beers.
- The unexpected origin of Shepherds’ pie.
- A note on the origin of Scottish foodways, featuring a southward rather than easterly gaze.
- Holiday Gift Guide: Kitchen Gear, Drinking Vessels, Food and Housewares
- Holiday Gift Guide: Clothing & Accessories
- Holiday Gift Guide: Books
- in the practical
- Jo Macsween’s Mungo pie.
- An accessible haggis recipe.
- A whisky sauce for haggis
- Scotch broth.
- Oatmeal soup.
- Beef ‘olives’ with skirlie.
- Duck breast with a sort of Scottish barley sauce.
- Savory oatmeal pudding
- A Scottish scallop pie.
- Christian Isobel Johnstone’s “Smoked Scotch sausages, to keep and eat cold.”
- Scottish mince.
- The britishfoodinamerica shepherds’ pie
- A Scottish fish pie with a simpler English variation embedded in the Notes.
- Pheasant braised in whisky cream.
- A Scottish curry for chicken or rabbit.
- Skirlie
- How to Make Tea Properly, from What Shall We Have For Breakfast?
- Trout fried in oatmeal
- Marmalade sandwiches.
- Marmalade trifle
No.42, Fall 2014
A Number of Savory Pies for Fall
A Number of Savory Pies for Fall
- in the critical
- Shameless PLUG: Buy the October issue of Petits Propos Culinaires.
- Our first monthly miscellany, being a book of surprises.
- Some handy books for cooking savory pies (and one that is not so handy).
- Traditional Yorkshire Food
- An illustrated Appreciation of Hochstadter’s Slow & Low.
- in the lyrical
- Holiday Gift Guide: Kitchen Gear, Drinking Vessels, Food and Housewares
- Holiday Gift Guide: Clothing & Accessories
- Holiday Gift Guide: Books
- An Now For Something Completely Different: The British Tradition of The Savory Pie
- A note on Medley pie, embedding recipes for it.
- in the practical
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- Turkey bread pudding
- How to Make Tea Properly, from What Shall We Have For Breakfast?
- A deconstructed pie of chicken and leek
- Chicken, leek and bacon pies
- A pie made with chicken, capers and corned beef or, if you dare, cured tongue.
- Venison pie another way
- Sea Pie
- Beef and mushroom pies
- Colonel Arthur Kenney-Herbert’s steak, ham and oyster pie.
- A Yorkshire ‘ham cake’ that is actually a simple pie.
- Black pudding and rhubarb pasties.
- Oyster and bacon pie.
- Resurrection pie.
- The Editor’s raised pork pie
- Mrs. Beeton’s steak & kidney pie.
- The Editor’s steak and kidney pie.
- Pleasant House Bakery’s
mushroom and kale pie. - Mushroom Pies
- An eighteenth century oyster and kidney pie.
- Steak pies sauced with Madeira
- Sea Pie
- Beef and mushroom pies
- Pork ciste.
- ‘Philadelphia’ beef and kidney pie.
- Giblets prepared another eighteenth century way, in a pie with steak
- Oyster and sausage pie
No.41, Summer 2014
Our First Foray Toward the Foodways of India
Our First Foray Toward the Foodways of India
- in the critical
- An illustrated Appreciation of Hochstadter’s Slow & Low.
- The mysteries of Mrs. Framji’s chicken curry, or , an assay into microhistory, embedding a review of The Raj at Table by David Burton.
- Pat Chapman remembers the kitchens of the Raj, partially by proxy.
- Andrew Tobin samples summer ciders
- Our Political Correspondent reveals to the Editor that art follows the life of imperial Russia at Bob Bob Ricard in London
- in the lyrical
- Imperial ecstasies, or, the cuisine of British India.
- The multiplication of mulligatawny
- Our reluctant correspondent recounts her time in Tokyo, including her introduction to a memorable cook and her Indian recipes.
- Notes on Country Captain
- in the practical
- The devil’s universal paste.
- Shikarree sauce.
- Mrs. Framji’s chicken
- The Editor’s weeknight curry.
- ‘Ball’ curry, incorporating notions from Henrietta Hervey, Copeland Marks, the Indo-Dutch “fricadellee” and other sources but not involving testicles.
- ‘Summer Hill’ pork chops.
- Peninsular & Oriental lamb korma.
- Curried cod
- A French inflected mulligatawny
- Mulligatawny a Chicago way
- Mulligatawny Madhur Jaffrey′s way
- Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert’s clear mulligatunny.
- Pat Chapman′s incongruous potato bacon cakes
- Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert’s 1891 ‘Ceylon’ curry of shrimp and cucumber.
- Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert’s mashed potato chutney
- Lakshna Jha’s chicken biryani with raita
- Mrs. D‘Sousa’s Rice with lemon and cardamom
- Biddlesdale breakfast curry
- Country Captain
- Country Captain a plainer way.
- Country Captain two even plainer ways.
- A Country Captain, southern style.
- Cecily Brownstone’s Country Captain.
- Bobby Flay’s Country Captain.
No.40, Spring 2014
An Eighteenth Century Interlude
An Eighteenth Century Interlude
- in the critical
- Our Political Correspondent reveals to the Editor that art follows the life of imperial Russia at Bob Bob Ricard in London
- A note on Sandra Sherman’s Fresh From the Past, eighteenth century abundance, including further thoughts on pudding and Jeri Quinzio’s Pudding.
- A Feast of Ice & Fire: The Official Companion Cookbook to George R. R. Martin’s A Game of Thrones by Chelsea Monroe-Cassel & Sariann Lehrer
- Art and Appetite: American Painting, Culture, and Cuisine at the Art Institute of Chicago.
- in the lyrical
- Pudding: A Global History by Jeri Quinzio
(or, they published that?), with a reluctant Appreciation of Sir Benjamin Thompson, Reichsgraf von Rumford, and a digression concerning Robert May. - in the practical
- Red Army Borscht
- Biddlesdale breakfast curry
- Potted gizzards.
- A seventeenth century boiled salad.
- An eighteenth century dish of pork with onions and mustard from Elizabeth Cleland.
- Pork chops with mustard emulsion.
- Rumford soup
- Parson Woodforde’s giblet soup
- Giblet soup prepared an early nineteenth century Scottish way
- Giblets prepared another eighteenth century way, in a pie with steak
- Beef brisket stuffed with bacon, oysters and parsley
- Cider cured ham
- An eighteenth century dish of smothered duck
- Eighteenth century Norfolk pudding
- An eighteenth century apple pie
No.39, Winter 2013
A Winter Number featuring
More Curious Cuisine and Holiday Cheer
A Winter Number featuring
More Curious Cuisine and Holiday Cheer
- in the critical
- Art and Appetite: American Painting, Culture, and Cuisine at the Art Institute of Chicago.
- Special bonus review: “Devouring Books” at the Ryerson Library of the Art Institute of Chicago.
- Beer (of a sort) in the City of Light
- Our Rural Correspondent heads north
for jet and fish: A visit to Whitby. - Owen & Engine extends the British beachhead in Chicago.
- The Vintage Tea Party Book by Angel Adoree, or: What if Tim Burton threw a tea party?
- The R’evolution starts now
- in the lyrical
- More Christmas suggestions, two of them homemade: Things boozy.
- Offcuts and outliers part 2, featuring decidedly earthy issues, if in different ways and including a 1940 recipe for potted cheese.
- Offcuts and outliers, Part I: A sort of rant involving the decline of culinary standards with some modest suggestions for addressing the problem, including notes on offal, pie birds, Queen Victoria and hot girlie action.
- Our annual collection of holiday gift ideas.
- in the practical
- A simple carpetbagger steak from Fanny Hill’s Cook Book
- A foolproof savory and highly seasoned potted cheese including anchovies for toast (preferred) or crackers; a bit of a devil too.
- A good crab salad from the Fanny Hill Cook Book, or, ‘Marquise d’Salade with crafty ebbing undressing’
- A wartime courtbouillion: The vicomte de Mauduit’s Truite Au Bleu.
- A premonition of Husk and Nobu: In 1940, a French aristocrat forages for British food, including crawfish.
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Turkey bread pudding
- Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- A fool for Thanksgiving, or just for a Fall day
- A pie made with chicken, capers and corned beef or, if you dare, cured tongue.
- Beef shank and oyster stew with Port.
- Calvin Schwabe’s ancient Roman ‘small bits stew.’
- Black pudding with apples and Madeira.
- Autumn Pudding
No.38, Fall 2013
A Meandering Fall Number, With Curious Questions and, Perhaps, Curious Cuisine
A Meandering Fall Number, With Curious Questions and, Perhaps, Curious Cuisine
- in the critical
- Beer (of a sort) in the City of Light
- Our Rural Correspondent heads north
for jet and fish: A visit to Whitby. - Owen & Engine extends the British beachhead in Chicago.
- The Vintage Tea Party Book by Angel Adoree, or: What if Tim Burton threw a tea party?
- The R’evolution starts now
- in the lyrical
- Our annual collection of holiday gift ideas.
- An Appreciation of Plimoth Plantation and James Deetz
- A note of thanks to our readers with observations on our fourth anniversary.
- A Menu For an English Dinner Served by the Editor to 16 Goddesses
- A pizza delivery resulting from an unlikely source prompts some consideration of things Newark--and Fluxus! featuring George Maciunas, Allan Kaprow and an online exhibition gallery.
- Offcuts and outliers, Part I: A sort of rant involving the decline of culinary standards with some modest suggestions for addressing the problem, including notes on offal, pie birds, Queen Victoria and hot girlie action.
- Another sally into the obscure, or, an inquiry into the origin of Rainwater Madeira, featuring notes on Madeira: Wine Cakes & Sauce by André Simon & Elizabeth Craig.
- No small surprise: The unexpected utility of cheap fake Madeira.
- An Appreciation of the Pudding Cloth.
- An appreciation of Vincent Price and his last film.
- A meditation on oysters from Nancy Diekmann, Our Traveling Correspondent.
- in the practical
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Turkey bread pudding
- Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- A fool for Thanksgiving, or just for a Fall day
- A second annual selection of Thanksgiving recipes inspired by Giving Thanks.
- Portuguese roast clams, sausage & cabbage.
- A pie made with chicken, capers and corned beef or, if you dare, cured tongue.
- Beef shank and oyster stew with Port.
- Calvin Schwabe’s ancient Roman ‘small bits stew.’
- Braised pork shoulder with rhubarb sauce.
- Peach Jam a Vintage Way, from our own Stephanie Dearmont.
- Veal kidneys Duke of Clarence style, or, implausibly, ‘Rognons de Veau, Duc de Clarence.’
- Florence Petty’s beef trifle with walnut gravy.
- Black pudding with apples and Madeira.
- An Edwardian devil
- A variation on Ronald Johnson’s deviled kidneys.
- Ronald Johnson’s horseradish ice cream for roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
- Ronald Johnson’s chicken livers Madeira.
- Bill Neal’s liver and cornmeal pudding
No.37, Summer 2013
An Eclectic Summer Number featuring a Forgotten Champion and More Musings on Madeira
An Eclectic Summer Number featuring a Forgotten Champion and More Musings on Madeira
- in the critical
- A new oyster bar and fish house in New Orleans: Pêche Seafood Grill.
- The R’evolution starts now
- New Orleans: A Food Biography is badly written, promotes anachronism and traduces the British culinary tradition.
- in the lyrical
- Another sally into the obscure, or, an inquiry into the origin of Rainwater Madeira, featuring notes on Madeira: Wine Cakes & Sauce by André Simon & Elizabeth Craig.
- A note on the 1793 Charleston Light Dragoons’ Punch.
- An Appreciation of the Pudding Lady, embedding commentary on recent books by Maggie Andrews and Ellen Ross.
- No small surprise: The unexpected utility of cheap fake Madeira.
- Firearms and food: A bold policy proposal for right-thinking people.
- Cooking with Worcestershire, featuring an Appreciation of Marcel Boulestin.
- in the practical
- Chicken and green olives braised in Madeira.
- Veal kidneys Duke of Clarence style, or, implausibly, ‘Rognons de Veau, Duc de Clarence.’
- Celery braised in Madeira from Florence Aaron and Paula Peck
- Three drinks made from Madeira, one with an inadvertently contentious title, another that sounds demure but packs a punch and the other a punch itself.
- ‘English pudding’ from the island of Madeira.
- A formula for 1793 Charleston Light Dragoons’ punch.
- Florence Petty’s beef trifle with walnut gravy.
- Celery and cheese soufflé: A pudding by another name from The Pudding Lady.
- Florence Petty’s golden pudding.
- Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
- Boulestin’s duck with brandy, claret and port
- Asparagus and mushrooms with Worcestershire on toast.
- Madeira syllabub
- Daisy Redman’s chicken fricassee with Madeira
- Steak pies sauced with Madeira
- Haddock baked in Madeira
- Black pudding with apples and Madeira.
- Jane Grigson’s mushroom and Madeira sauce
- Ronald Johnson’s chicken livers Madeira.
No.36, Spring 2013
Our First Quarterly Number, featuring
a Vanished Ireland and Worcestershire
Our First Quarterly Number, featuring
a Vanished Ireland and Worcestershire
- in the critical
- The Churchill Tavern: Romance and ruin in midtown south
- Downton Abbey and the drive for ratings, featuring a review of the Unofficial Downton Abbey Cookbook by Emily Ansara Baines.
- The fall and rise of the Irish cheese.
- in the lyrical
- An Appreciation of the footnote, with an illustrative digression on Worcestershire sauce.
- Cooking with Worcestershire, featuring an Appreciation of Marcel Boulestin.
- A note on Ascendancy foodways with a digression on Irish stew and a short detour to Boston.
- In search of the elusive but resilient Snaffles mousse with an Appreciation of Lady Mollie Cusack Smith.
- A glass of the Irish please.
- A review of Edwardian Glamour Cooking (Without Tears)
- in the practical
- Boulestin’s duck with brandy, claret and port
- Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
- Beef stewed in Worcestershire.
- Boulestin’s Maltese curry with Worcestershire.
- Asparagus and mushrooms with Worcestershire on toast.
- Boulestin’s beet fricassee.
- Boulestin’s Worcestershire curry sauce
- Boulestin’s peas with bacon, lettuce and onion.
- Lamb chops ‘Portmanteau’
- Lady Mollie Cusack Smith’s Bermingham chicken
- Lettuce with cheese sauce
- Mushroom mousse with fried mushrooms
- Snaffles mousse
- Pollo alla Toscana
- Chicken Asquith
- Dublin lawyer.
- Pork ciste.
- Glamorous Edwardian recipes
- Cutlets Edward VII
- Anchovy tomato sauce
No.35, Feb 2013
A Wintry Number of Soups & Stews
A Wintry Number of Soups & Stews
- in the critical
- Nostra culpa redeemed, perhaps, by some advice about celery.
- A note on cooking with beer, including reviews of Beer and Vittles by Elizabeth Craig and Beer and Skittles by Richard Boston.
- Ferry Plaza Seafood and the Hog Island Oyster Company: Two oyster bars at the San Francisco Ferry Terminal and a note about clam soup on the west coast.
- An Appreciation of British Soups
- in the lyrical
- Winter Market: The San Francisco Ferry Terminal
- The anomaly that is stew.
- An Appreciation of the footnote, with an illustrative digression on Worcestershire sauce.
- in the practical
- An adaptation of Charles Francatelli’s austere and alluring beef stew for the working classes for service with suet dumplings
- Hotchpot
- Sussex stewed steak
- Potted Sussex steak
- Dublin coddle.
- China Chilo
- A celery salad for your stew.
- A couple of creative consommés featuring shellfish (or not).
- Curried cauliflower soup.
- Artichoke Soup.
- Onion and cider soup
- A nineteenth century recipe for beef boiled in beer from Elisabeth Ayrton.
- Cabbage stewed in beer.
- Elizabeth Craig’s gravy with beer for steak.
No.34, Mid-Winter 2012
Our Third Holiday Number
Our Third Holiday Number
- in the critical
- Our Graduate Correspondent visits Los Angeles and gets some surprises, including Ye Olde King’s Head.
- A raucous evening of Restoration Comedy.
- Our Rural Correspondent visits The Anchor in Oxford.
- Our Rural Correspondent somehow finds
The Oxford Arms - Our annual roundup of noteworthy books.
- The resilient British brewing tradition: Eight transatlantic case studies.
- in the lyrical
- Our annual holiday gift guide.
- Shops for Cookbooks
- To use.
- To eat.
- One of our College Correspondents eats a kebab and bonds with (some of) the local denizens of York.
- Lost and found; the search for Ongar ham cake and other Essex foodways.
- A festive holiday Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- in the practical
- Ham cake.
- A ham pie unaccountably called a cake from Your Granny’s Cook Book by Sheila Hutchins.
- Epping sausages.
- Elisabeth Ayrton’s own recipe for grilled steak with black coffee.
- First, the Editor’s dry cured spiced beef
- Second, spiced beef based on Henry Sarson’s robust wartime wet cure.
- Jane Grigson’s potted cheese.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- Marmalade trifle
- Potted shrimp
- Potted crab.
- Potted ham.
- Potted Crawfish
- Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
- Broccoli & Brussels sprout casserole
No.33, Nov 2012
Our Second Preservation Number
Our Second Preservation Number
- in the critical
- The resilient British brewing tradition: Eight transatlantic case studies.
- The global wanderings of marmalade featuring a melancholy note on American Exceptionalism.
- in the lyrical
- More notes on potted foods, this time toward the onset of winter.
- Reflections on snapper soup.
- in the practical
- Jane Grigson’s potted cheese.
- Marmalade sandwiches.
- Marmalade trifle
- An eighteenth century recipe for pickled eggs.
- Pickled oysters.
- Pickled shrimp.
- Another eighteenth century recipe, for pickled fennel.
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Turkey bread pudding
- Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- Potted shrimp
- Potted crab.
- Potted ham.
- Potted Crawfish
No.32, Oct 2012
The Philadelphia Story
The Philadelphia Story
- in the critical
- The Standard Tap in Philadelphia; Yards and other ales in cask.
- The rise and rise of rhubarb, including some recommended products.
- in the lyrical
- Reflections on snapper soup.
- An appreciation of Margaret Yardley Potter, or, a sexy Philadelphia Story other than the film.
- The first rhubarb recipes, involving questions about historical identity.
- in the practical
- Cocktails courtesy of Margaret Yardley Potter with a digression to water ice.
- Rhubarb sauces for fish… and other things too.
- A note on a sort of snapper soup with a recipe featuring annotations.
- ‘Philadelphia’ beef and kidney pie.
- Bill Neal’s Cheese straws, which are really crackers.
- Madeira syllabub
No.31, Sep 2012
Sandwiches, Salads and Spitalfields
Sandwiches, Salads and Spitalfields
- in the critical
- An unexpected delight: Canteen.
- A vindication of sorts for Midwestern beer.
- A bagel by any other name?
- Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.
- in the lyrical
- The mysterious Florence Cowles and her thousands of sandwiches, featuring many sardines, musings on architecture and the unlikely Dafigconuchocarbutt.
- The elegant English sandwiches of Hilda Leyel.
- An Appreciation of Sir Henry Thompson.
- The Oyster Loaf:
- in the practical
- Mrs. Leyel’s incongruously named ‘Crème D’Haricots’ sandwich.
- Dorothy Hartley’s good watercress sandwich.
- An imaginative corned beef sandwich.
- The Delhi sandwich.
- Blueberry chutney.
- Three roast beef sandwiches, one of them by any other (appropriate) name.
- Tomato sandwiches.
- A complicated ham sandwich allegedly inspired by Sherlock Holmes.
- Oswell Blakeston’s glamourous Turkish sandwiches along with two other special bonus creations.
- Roast beef salad.
- Watercress and orange salad.
- A Pleasant House salad.
- A Salad Inspired by Sir Henry Thompson
No.30, Jul/Aug 2012
Oystermania and A Riverine Expedition
Oystermania and A Riverine Expedition
- in the critical
- Oysters in a Little Town.
- Three Men, a Diary and a Dog or riverine and pooterish fare from our Rural Correspondent, being the return of our occasional series on food in books.
- Tracks, Penn Station: the other train station oyster bar in New York
- An enduring if annoying New York legend; the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal.
- Imitation and innovation at Shaw’s Crab House.
- Failure in New Orleans, or, the demise of Desire.
- An unlikely pilgrimage to the Matunuck Oyster Bar.
- Oysters at Lüke in New Orleans.
- Oysters at Randall & Aubin in London.
- Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.
- in the lyrical
- Oysters outside the ‘R’ months?
- Tribute to the Oyster
- The Oyster Loaf:
- On oysters: The British origin of a robust American tradition.
- in the practical
- Lady Clark’s oyster sauce for steaks.
- A robust Rhode Island mignonette.
- A sauce for oysters from Little Town in New York City.
- To shuck an oyster.
- An ancient English sauce of oysters
- Oyster and sausage pie
- Salmon with oysters an Irish way.
- Broiled oysters from the
Union Oyster House in Boston. - Oyster stew.
- An eighteenth century oyster and kidney pie.
- Hangtown Fry.
- Grilled oysters.
- Alexandre Dumas’ supermignonette for oysters.
No.29, Jun 2012
The Oyster Number
The Oyster Number
- in the critical
- An enduring if annoying New York legend; the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal.
- Imitation and innovation at Shaw’s Crab House.
- Failure in New Orleans, or, the demise of Desire.
- An unlikely pilgrimage to the Matunuck Oyster Bar.
- Oysters at Lüke in New Orleans.
- Oysters at Randall & Aubin in London.
- Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.
- A review of two books on oysters that follow different paths, featuring a digression on the lifestyle of the fortunate oyster.
- in the lyrical
- On oysters: The British origin of a robust American tradition.
- An Appreciation of the oyster, on Nantucket and in New Orleans, from our Reluctant Correspondent.
- Hemingway eats oysters in Paris.
- A poem about oysters from Jonathan Swift.
- in the practical
- Oyster stew.
- An eighteenth century oyster and kidney pie.
- A note on steak & oyster tartare, with a recipe.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- An oyster omelet.
- Hangtown Fry.
- Grilled oysters.
- Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s oyster, celeriac and leek soup
- Alexandre Dumas’ supermignonette for oysters.
- Angels on horseback.
No.28, May 2012
Another Spring Number Featuring
the Poetry of Ronald Johnson
Another Spring Number Featuring
the Poetry of Ronald Johnson
- in the critical
- Two contrasting cookbooks hot off the press, from April Bloomfield and Brian Yarvin.
- Bon Appétit climbs our Wall of Shame and publishes some good recipes in the process.
- A tale of two critiques: Our Rural Correspondent considers Tender by Nigel Slater.
- in the lyrical
- An Appreciation of Ronald Johnson
- Our Reluctant Correspondent likes Jane Grigson, visits farmers’ markets and cooks sorrel soup.
- in the practical
- Sorrel Soup
- Watercress soup.
- Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
- Ronald Johnson’s horseradish ice cream for roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
- A batter pudding of bacon, goat cheese and zucchini.
- Ronald Johnson’s colonial chicken pudding.
- Crispy sole with anchovy cream.
- Ronald Johnson’s chicken livers Madeira.
- A variation on Ronald Johnson’s deviled kidneys.
- Scotch pies
- Chicken, leek and bacon pies
- Beef and mushroom pies
No.27, Apr 2012
A Chicago Number Featuring Pies
A Chicago Number Featuring Pies
- in the critical
- Bon Appétit climbs our Wall of Shame and publishes some good recipes in the process.
- Wall of Shame special bonus item: Ruth Reichl resorts to unfortunate phrasing in Saveur.
- A cautionary tale from Publican in Chicago.
- The West Town Tavern in Chicago continues to thrive and thrill, with a little help from Becker Lane Organic Farm.
- in the lyrical
- The globalization of Chicago foodways, featuring the transformation of Bridgeport and an Appreciation of Art and Chelsea Jackson at Pleasant House.
- The British brewing style lands in Chicago.
- in the practical
- Pleasant House Bakery’s
mushroom and kale pie. - Basic pie crust
- Scotch pies
- Chicken, leek and bacon pies
- Beef and mushroom pies
- Braised Short Ribs from West Town Tavern
- Fennel salad from the West Town Tavern
- Brussels sprouts the West Town Tavern way
- West Town Tavern’s ‘beer cheese’
- Pork ciste.
- Brown bread.
- Tea bread.
No.26, Mar 2012
Our First Irish Number
Our First Irish Number
- in the critical
- Wall of Shame special bonus item: Ruth Reichl resorts to unfortunate phrasing in Saveur.
- Go to Gravy, but only for Mr. Hollins and the food.
- Is There an Irish Cuisine?
- Wall of Shame
- in the lyrical
- The fall and rise of the Irish cheese.
- Workman’s Friend
- A wolf gives a gift of coddle and champions the can.
- A note about Dublin coddle.
- A note on Guinness Foreign Extra.
- in the practical
- Ham in cider with celery and raisin sauce.
- Oatmeal pancakes with bacon.
- Beef Guinness.
- Corned beef braised in Guinness
- Dublin coddle.
- Dublin lawyer.
- Roast chicken an Irish way.
- Ballymalloe Irish Stew.
- Pork ciste.
- Brown bread.
- Tea bread.
- Potted shrimp
- Potted salmon.
No.25, Feb 2012
A Preservation Number
A Preservation Number
- in the critical
- Go to Gravy, but only for Mr. Hollins and the food.
- North and south in both geography and metaphor, or a review of Northern Hospitality: Cooking by the Book in New England by Keith Stavely & Kathleen Fitzgerald
- The soul of a vanished world; a restaurant review of Husk in Charleston, South Carolina.
- in the lyrical
- A poem on potted meat.
- An Appreciation of the anchovy, featuring E. S. Dallas, other lubricious subjects and embedded recipes.
- Our Education Correspondent chronicles the return of the heritage pig.
- in the practical
- Potted chicken and ham.
- Potted trout.
- Potted tongue.
- Potted crab.
- Potted salmon.
- `Melted Butter:` a misnomer and once The Only Sauce.
- Chicken bog with sausage.
- Anchovy essence
- A curry of shrimp… and pears.
- Potted beef.
- Potted shrimp
- Potted mushrooms.
- Potted calf’s liver
- Potted ham.
No.24, Mid-Winter 2011
A Number of Classics for the Holidays
A Number of Classics for the Holidays
- in the critical
- Perfidious Albion: A restaurant review.
- A review of A History of English Food by Clarissa Dickson Wright and its reviewers
- Roast beef, ovens and spits; or, all that’s old is new again.
- in the lyrical
- The wine of choice in the Age of Revolution, or, Madeira the muse and its uses, with two book reviews.
- An Appreciation of the Be-Ro cookbook through eight decades and forty-one iterations.
- Boxing Day
- Christmas Day
- A festive holiday Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- in the practical
- Mushroom ketchup.
- Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
- A deconstructed pie of chicken and leek
- Broccoli & Brussels sprout casserole
- White gingerbread
- Daisy Redman’s chicken fricassee with Madeira
- Steak pies sauced with Madeira
- Haddock baked in Madeira
- Black pudding with apples and Madeira.
- Jane Grigson’s mushroom and Madeira sauce
- Madeira syllabub
- Double or nothing roast beef
- Yorkshire pudding
- Spiced Beef
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- Books for Holiday Gifting
- Food and Drink Gifts for the Holidays
- Kitchen, Household and Fashion Gifts for the Holidays.
No.23, Nov 2011
Our Second Thanksgiving Number
Our Second Thanksgiving Number
- in the critical
- A review of two new books, on milk and on beer: Which would you choose?
- Punting and Eating in Oxford: The Cherwell Boathouse
- in the lyrical
- Briny bets for the eve of Thanksgiving.
- Saveur roasts six turkeys; we weigh in with two
- The minor mystery of ‘dolphin cheese.’
- An Appreciation of Plimoth Plantation and James Deetz
- in the practical
- Books for Holiday Gifting
- Food and Drink Gifts for the Holidays
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- A second annual selection of Thanksgiving recipes inspired by Giving Thanks.
- Lock-Ober lobster stew
- Oyster stew
- A simple clam soup
- Parsnips and turnips with ginger
- Curried onions
- Glazed onions
- Corn pudding
- A fool for Thanksgiving, or just for a Fall day
- The Rabbit Variations
No.22, Oct 2011
A Dairy Number
A Dairy Number
- in the critical
- A review of two new books, on milk and on beer: Which would you choose?
- Punting and Eating in Oxford: The Cherwell Boathouse
- Pizza Delivery: Elizabeth David, Rabbits, Kirsch, and More
- in the lyrical
- An appreciation of Vincent Price and his last film.
- Rabbits, rarebits, toasted cheese and an artifact.
- The minor mystery of ‘dolphin cheese.’
- in the practical
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- Tourtiere
- Rappie pie
- The Rabbit Variations
- A Parmesan custard with anchovy toast from Rowley Leigh
- Cheese and egg soup
- Jane Grigson’s potted cheese
- Recipes that pair cheese with fish; a heretical notion?
- Two Recipes for Mac and Cheese, and a Stilton Walnut Pasta
No.21, Sep 2011
O! Canada - A Number Devoted to
North Atlantic Foodways
O! Canada - A Number Devoted to
North Atlantic Foodways
- in the critical
- Of Plumbers’ Flares and Flambéed Pears:
- Notes from Canada on How to Cook Fish: Canadian Fish Cook Book
- in the lyrical
- A meditation on Canadian foodways
- Further thoughts on sea pie in North America provoked by the Editor’s glance through an exemplary little Canadian cookbook.
- Salt in the service of seasoning and the seasons, and a beautiful child born of need: the Atlantic fricot.
- Some thoughts from the Gaspé Peninsula on the use of herbs.
- in the practical
- Tourtiere
- Rappie pie
- Cipaille the oldest way
- Cipaille a postmodern way
- Cipaille another way, with triple decks
- Sea Pie
- Recipes and notations for fricot and its dumplings.
- Acadian stuffed dumplings.
- Herbes salées
- Chicken Fricassee with White Sauce From Révérende Mère Caron
- Drunkard’s soup
- Beet and caper salad
- Autumn Salad with Honey-Broiled Apples
- Cherry pudding
No.20, Jul/Aug 2011
Another Caribbean Number, featuring Jamaica
Another Caribbean Number, featuring Jamaica
- in the critical
- Phoebe Dinsmore and the Editor visit a struggling British outpost in New Orleans: Feast.
- Beer in London
- An appreciation of Westerhall rum
- in the lyrical
- Outlaw elements and culinary adaptation:
- An appreciation of Richard Ligon, featuring some discussion of a new book, The Sugar Barons: Family, Corruption, Empire and War, by Matthew Parker.
- The curious case of the proliferating pepperpot and its strange excursion north --or not.
- Rumbullion and killdevil, or: Rum, the spirit of the Indies.
- in the practical
- A Bermudan salad from Outerbridge’s
- Pork and mirliton pie
- Susan Spicer’s crab pelau
- Guyanese pepperpot
- Coconut bread
- Red bean and rum soup
- A citrus pie
- Sauerbraten [at britishfoodinamerica! ?]
- Nelson’s Caribbean ‘parfait.’
- Jamaican rum infusions
- A note on brine for pork or possibly beef.
- Sangaree and Other Rum Drinks
- Curried tomato salad
- Phoebe Dinsmore searches for the real, green (unripe, even) Caribbean salad thing.
No.19, Jun 2011
A First Caribbean Number, featuring Barbados
A First Caribbean Number, featuring Barbados
- in the critical
- Beer in London
- An appreciation of Westerhall rum
- in the lyrical
- Arawak, African and English settlers on Barbados: The origins of Bajan food.
- Rumbullion and killdevil, or: Rum, the spirit of the Indies.
- Planters Punch - a poem
- A note on China Chilo
- in the practical
- Sangaree and Other Rum Drinks
- Marinated Bajan chicken and carrots
- Barbecued chicken
- Chicken baked with lime & thyme
- Bajan crab backs
- Three simple and sublime Caribbean soups
- Bajan souse and pudding
- Curried tomato salad
- Phoebe Dinsmore searches for the real, green (unripe, even) Caribbean salad thing.
- A note on Bajan mock apple sauce.
- Coconut ice cream
- China Chilo
No.18, May 2011
Our First Nautical Number
Our First Nautical Number
- in the critical
- A Review of Tea & Sympathy, NYC
- A note on some cheeses… from New Jersey
- in the lyrical
- A note on China Chilo
- Food at sea in the age of fighting sail
- Sea pie: A saga of innovation and transformation
- A note on the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company.
- in the practical
- China Chilo
- Sea Pie
- Duck with lettuce and peas
- Lobscouse
- Corned beef braised in Guinness
- Kidneys in onions
- Bacon and Mushroom Roly Poly
- Peninsular & Oriental lamb korma.
- Maritime Soup
- A note on pease pudding, or, mariners’ fare in the seventeenth century.
- The Salad in Winter--and Spring
No.17, Apr 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 2
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 2
- in the critical
- Wartime Cookery, featuring not only imposters but also erotomania
- It left a bad taste: The Editor considers The Taste of War: World War Two and the Battle for Food by Lizzie Collingham
- The Curmudgeonly Raconteur doubles down on St. John with the Editor.
- in the lyrical
- Portman Pudding and Snoek Piquant:
- An Appreciation of the sheep’s head, both at the table and on the page.
- A Note from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean) about austerity in Gloucestershire.
- An Appreciation of the Approval Matrix, Paula Deen & “English Peas”
- in the practical
- A nod to Easter and austerity: Recipes for rabbit (or, if you insist, chicken).
- Mushroom Pies
- Ambrose Heath’s “Sussex Blanket”
- Sir Kenneth Clark’s “ham roll salad”
- A wartime ‘Kedgeree of Kidneys’
- Ambrose Heath and olive oil during wartime lead the Editor to wonder about some conventional wisdom concerning the insularity of the island kitchen.
No.16, Mar 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 1
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 1
- in the critical
- A review of At Elizabeth David’s Table and the consequent award of our first Ally.
- The Curmudgeonly Raconteur doubles down on St. John with the Editor.
- Two Museum Exhibits and The Ministry of Food by Jane Fearnley-Whittingstall
- in the lyrical
- A Note from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean) about austerity in Gloucestershire.
- An Appreciation of the Approval Matrix, Paula Deen & “English Peas”
- in the practical
- Roast chicken
- Carrots
- Baked cabbage and apples.
- Braised cabbage and carrots.
- Bread sauce
- Sussex stewed steak
No.15, Feb 2011
The Food of the People
The Food of the People
- in the critical
- Phoebe Dinsmore and a friend enter the Wayback Machine to visit Henry Public
- An Appreciation of British Soups
- Our Guest Historian Reads Lark Rise
- in the lyrical
- Traditional Food in Wales from our Education Correspondent
- A 1960s culinary childhood in the northeast of England
- in the practical
- Turtle Soup
- Welsh Recipes
- Soup Recipes
- Boiley cake
- Yorkshire pudding
- Double or nothing roast beef
No.14, Jan 2011
Our Customary January Supplement
Our Customary January Supplement
- in the critical
- Andrew Edmunds in the kitchen and on the page
- Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen: A reappraisal four decades on.
- in the lyrical
- An English Season: A Photo Essay
- Boxing Day
- in the practical
- Marbled veal
- Smoked Haddock and Shrimp Terrine
- Oxtail Terrine
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- A Seventeenth Century Mustard Sauce
- A Boxing Day Sauce for Leftover Turkey
- Baked Ham with Cumberland Sauce
- Boiled Daisy Ham with Vegetables
- Boiled Fresh Ham
No.13, Dec 2010
Our Inaugural Holiday Number
Our Inaugural Holiday Number
- in the critical
- Andrew Edmunds in the kitchen and on the page
- Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen: A reappraisal four decades on.
- in the lyrical
- An English Season: A Photo Essay
- Christmas Day
- A festive holiday Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- Boxing Day
- in the practical
- Holiday Shopping Suggestions
- Smoked Haddock and Shrimp Terrine
- Oxtail Terrine
- Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
- A Seventeenth Century Mustard Sauce
- A Boxing Day Sauce for Leftover Turkey
- Baked Ham with Cumberland Sauce
- Boiled Daisy Ham with Vegetables
- Boiled Fresh Ham
No.12, Nov 2010
The Thanksgiving Number
The Thanksgiving Number
- in the critical
- Harrods Book of Traditional English Cookery
- in the lyrical
- An Appreciation of Plimoth Plantation and James Deetz
- Thanksgiving with the Editor
- Thanksgiving, Italian-American Style
- A new Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- Talking Turkey
- in the practical
- Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
- Turkey bread pudding
- Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
- Seethed mussels
- Theodora FitzGibbon’s Brussels sprouts.
- A Brussels sprout salad
- Brussels sprouts with horseradish and bacon.
- Brussels sprouts and chestnuts.
- Pumpkin time
- Autumn Pudding
No.11, Oct 2010
A First All Hallows Number
A First All Hallows Number
- in the critical
- We return to Clerkenwell in strength, and this time for dinner.
- in the lyrical
- An appreciation of Vincent Price and his last film.
- An Essay on Devils
- in the practical
- Jane Grigson’s white devil
- A recipe for Dry devils
- Devilled kidneys & something from the Gulf of Mexico via the North Sea (not oil).
- Devilled pork ribs
- Spiced Beef
No.10, Sep 2010
A VictoEdwardian Number
A VictoEdwardian Number
- in the critical
- The Doctor in the (Victorian) Kitchen
- A review of Edwardian Glamour Cooking (Without Tears)
- in the lyrical
- Our American Correspondent in Egypt Meets the British in Cairo
- An Appreciation of Sir Henry Thompson.
- This Time, We Did Get Here First
- in the practical
- A Salad Inspired by Sir Henry Thompson
- Peaches and Pears: Battling a bumper crop.
- Glamorous Edwardian recipes
- Stuffed lamb chops
- Mrs. Ayrton’s tomato sauce for roast and grilled meats.
- Anchovy tomato sauce
- Cutlets Edward VII
No.9, Jul/Aug 2010
The Midsummer Number
The Midsummer Number
- in the critical
- Notes from Canada on How to Cook Fish: Canadian Fish Cook Book
- An Appreciation of Wheelers
- in the lyrical
- A History of Freshwater Fishing
- A Note From The Edge (of the Forest of Dean) on Swan Lake
- Planters Punch - a poem
- in the practical
- A little salad history
- Cod with mushrooms in cider.
- Cod with Bacon and Cabbage.
- Stewed Cod
- Mackerel Prepared Many Ways
- Soused quail
- Flounder poached in cream
- Roast trout with bacon
- Trout fried in oatmeal
- Compound Butter Recipes
No.8, Jun 2010
Britain and the American South
Britain and the American South
- in the critical
- A Review of Great British Food from Canteen, and Pig: King of the Southern Table by James Villas
- A Discussion of Cheese Straws
- in the lyrical
- An Appreciation of Bill Neal
- Another Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- Notes on Country Captain
- in the practical
- Green Gold
- Bobby Flay’s Country Captain.
- Roast pork with herb crust and onion gravy
- Oatmeal and onion pudding
- Bill Neal’s liver and cornmeal pudding
- A recipe for braised pork from Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock
- Strawberry Season
- Country Captain
- Country Captain a plainer way.
- Country Captain two even plainer ways.
- A Country Captain, southern style.
- Cecily Brownstone’s Country Captain.
- Bill Neal’s Cheese straws, which are really crackers.
No.7, May 2010
A Second Seasonal Number
A Second Seasonal Number
- in the critical
- Foragers, fine food and more, encountered on television and in Cheltenham
- Our French Correspondent Visits The Breslin
- in the lyrical
- Rabbit in the British Diet
- in the practical
- Another Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- Three Recipes for Venison Pie
- Some recipes for rabbit
- Sprottled eggs
- Aggie Jekyll’s pudding of chicken, mushroom and sausage
No.6, Apr 2010
A Seasonal Number
A Seasonal Number
- in the critical
- Ski the east
- Shipshape and Bristol fashion: A very honest cookbook review
- in the lyrical
- The Crawfish Problem in England
- A first note from our own Curmudgeonly Raconteur
- Another Note from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- An Appreciation of Agnes Jekyll
- in the practical
- Diary of a Crawfisherman
- A selection of crawfish recipes
- Ham in Madiera
- Improved Cabbage
- Fungi Foraging
No.5, Mar 2010
The Bristolian Number
The Bristolian Number
- in the critical
- The Albion - A restaurant review
- Bars in Bristol
- in the lyrical
- Notes about Notes from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- in the practical
- A Dinner from Bristol
No.4, Feb 2010
The Elizabeth David Number
The Elizabeth David Number
- in the critical
- An Introduction to Elizabeth David
- Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen
- A new British block of New York: West 10 Street
- A Review of Two Good Books
- College cuisine
- in the lyrical
- A British Bar Boomlet in New York: The Breslin, Clerkenwell and Highlands
- Fungi Foraging
- An Appreciation of Richard Collin- the late New Orleans restaurant critic and cookbook author
- in the practical
- A winter fool from Elizabeth David
- Another winter fool
- Variations on chicken fricassee
- Morels on toast
- Mushroom fricassee
- Alexis Soyer’s mushrooms under glass
- Potted Mushrooms
- Salt duck
- Turnips with orange
- Steak with sherry cream
- Sherried steak another way
- Sussex stewed steak
- Smashed Potatoes
- A Brussels sprout salad
- Potatoes in milk
- Primitive roast onions
No.3, Mid-Winter 2009
The Killjoy Number
The Killjoy Number
- in the critical
- A Note on The Economist
- The Financial Times and the Art of Eating, or Good Taste is No Fun.
- A Case Study in Branding: the Conglomeration of Mark Hix (with Restaurant Review of Hix Oyster & Chop House)
- in the lyrical
- Notes Contemplating an Excursion from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- A lament for white sauce
- in the practical
- Shrimp Pudding - from London England Cooking
- Shrimp Pudding - from English Puddings: Sweet and Savoury
- A green salad with oranges, red onion and stilton
- Driving Shoe Dressing
- Barbecued shrimp
- Winter Fools
- A January Note from the Editor
No.2, Nov 2009
The Charcuterie Number
The Charcuterie Number
- in the critical
- British Charcuterie by Jennie Reekie
- Corrigans Mayfair - Restaurant Review
- in the lyrical
- An Appreciation of the Pudding Cloth.
- A Discussion of Some Hazlitts
- in the practical
- Notes from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- Bacon and Onion Pudding
- Haslet
- Oxford sausages
No.1, Oct 2009
The Launch Number
The Launch Number
- in the critical
- Double Crown - Restaurant Review
- How bad is Guinness 250?
- Transatlantic Transgressions: The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.
- in the lyrical
- An Appreciation of Laurie Colwin.
- Notes from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
- Seasonal Food and Celebrity Chefs
- in the practical
- A Dinner of Beef Guinness
- Laurie Colwin’s Spiced Walnuts