Our Archive

• in the critical
• Factual fiction, featuring strange birds, narcotics, romantic foodways, a quack doctor and Things: Part 1 of 3.
• in the lyrical
• A note on tiffin.
• An Appreciation of The Queen’s College, Oxford.
• Maritime miscellany.
• in the practical
• Grilled chicken marinated in honey, lime and spice.
• Esheperds’ Pie
• Sind Club ham in gin
• Cabbage with peas
• Himalayan Cheese on Toast Recipe
• Calcutta tangled cabbage
• Chocolate tiffin

• in the critical
• A rueful response.
• Harrods Book of Traditional English Cookery
• in the lyrical
• A consideration of Charlotte Du Cann, featuring fashion, fine art, food, sex and Dark Mountain.
• Unsung icon: Elisabeth Ayrton and English mores within and beyond the kitchen.
• An Appreciation of Plimoth Plantation and James Deetz
• Thanksgiving, Italian-American Style
• A new Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• Talking Turkey
• in the practical
• A note on steak & oyster tartare, with a recipe.
• Beef brisket stuffed with bacon, oysters and parsley
• A couple of creative consommés featuring shellfish (or not).
• Oysters with apples and black pudding
• An ancient English sauce of oysters
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Turkey bread pudding
• Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
• Seethed mussels
• Theodora FitzGibbon’s Brussels sprouts.
• A Brussels sprout salad
• Brussels sprouts with horseradish and bacon.
• Brussels sprouts and chestnuts.
• Pumpkin time
• Autumn Pudding

• in the critical
• A rueful response.
• in the lyrical
• A consideration of Charlotte Du Cann, featuring fashion, fine art, food, sex and Dark Mountain.
• Occasional Miscellany: The lost soups of Belfast.
• Unsung icon: Elisabeth Ayrton and English mores within and beyond the kitchen.
• in the practical
• Double or nothing roast beef
• Steak pies sauced with Madeira
• Potted beef.
• A note on steak & oyster tartare, with a recipe.
• A nineteenth century recipe for beef boiled in beer from Elisabeth Ayrton.
• Beef brisket stuffed with bacon, oysters and parsley
• Sussex stewed steak
• A couple of creative consommés featuring shellfish (or not).
• BFIA baked beans with orange zest
• A stovetop version of British baked beans.
• Oysters with apples and black pudding
• An ancient English sauce of oysters

• in the critical
• Old School home cooks in Oxfordshire and its hilly environs.
• A tale of two Scottish cities.
• in the lyrical
• Occasional miscellany: Tomato soup cake.
• A rural childhood in interwar Oxfordshire: An Appreciation of Mollie Harris and A Kind of Magic
• Unsung icon: Elisabeth Ayrton and English mores within and beyond the kitchen.
• An instructive ode to clarified milk punch from Christian Isobel Johnstone.
• in the practical
• Notes on curing ham from Christian Isobel Johnstone, two French interlopers, Theodora FitzGibbon, David Tanis and, well, us.
• A smaller scale homecured alternative to traditional British ham.
• A clanger from Chipping Camden in the Cotswolds.
• Liver and bacon
• Mincemeat cake
• Raspberry rover
• Mrs. Johnstone’s Anchovy Sauce, including a nod to Mrs. Grigson and her hopes for the revival of melted butter.
• Sir Morton O’Doherty’s devilled ham

• in the critical
• Occasional Miscellany, or, disparate approaches to adversity and the egg.
• in the lyrical
• Occasional miscellany, or, Never buy a dead lobster: The strange enough life and kitchen of Daisy Breaux, along with notes on Oliver Herbert, a pair of midcentury originals.
• A Piscine Miscellany
• Jamaican Miscellany, along with a good recipe for shrimp.
• Poetic miscellany
• in the practical
• Daisy Breaux’ ‘Calhoun Concoction’
• A robust fast and easy ‘omelet’ from Elisabeth Ayrton that does not require the dreaded tilt, flip and roll.
• A simplified Lancashire hotpot from Elisabeth Ayrton.
• A satanic dinner on the fly from Time is of the Essence, including a detour through The Prawn Cocktail Years .
• Sussex stewed steak
• Lamb chops with kidney and bacon
• ‘Status Stew’ from the cookbook “for people who cannot cook and do not want other people to know it.”
• Mackerel Prepared Many Ways

• in the critical
• A flight, at intervals unfortunately of fancy, through the development of American foodways through the examination of some influential figures via Women in the Kitchen by Anne Willan and featuring a pirate of exquisite mind as well as soy sauce.
• in the lyrical
• A note on Boston brown bread.
• A note on a stubborn resistance to Yankee foodways.
• in the practical
• Fannie Farmer’s Boston brown bread
• Classic English Curried Shrimp from Locke-Ober
• Fanny Farmer’s ‘English Monkey’
• A veal and parsley pie from Maria Eliza Rundell
• Fannie Farmer’s third bread
• Potted Salmon
• Mary Lincoln’s thirded bread
• Boston Brown Bread from Townsman

• in the critical
• Assessments of Ireland’s Green Larder by Margaret Hickey (London 2018)
• Macaroni and cheese: A case study in the condition of culinary historiography during the culture wars.
• in the lyrical
• An Appreciation of inconsistency
• Special bonus double entendre miscellany: It’s a crock, not a wheel.
• in the practical
• Cheese pudding
• Beef cheese
• The potter’s products; a select sample of eleven recipes from Pottery by A Potter.
• The BFIA macaroni and cheese recipe
• Brown bread.
• Roast chicken an Irish way.
• Dublin coddle.
• Pork ciste.

• in the critical
• A wonderful cookbook embedding a flawed premise: Jubilee and the antecedents of African American foodways.
• in the lyrical
• An Appreciation of Hugh Acheson
• An alternative to Alcoholics Anonymous from Robert Roberts.
• Double bonus occasional miscellany: The cult of orange, Fly Girls and a Smart Aleck.
• A photoessay for a time of plagues: Fons Americanus.
• in the practical
• Roast lamb larded with orange peel
• Mrs. J. L. Lane’s breast of lamb with orange stuffing
• The BFIA macaroni and cheese recipe
• Mrs. J. L. Lane’s orange sauce for game
• BFIA baked beans with orange zest
• Orange ketchup
• Green pease with orange sauce
• An orange compound butter for fish from Pottery by A. Potter
• Watercress and orange salad
• An exceptional mustard based on a formula from Robert Roberts.
• ‘Renato Syllabubs’
• Mrs. Lane’s orange fool from 1909
• Burnt cream with tea.
• Robin McDouall’s roast duck with orange stuffing

• in the critical
• Observations on the Revival of British Techniques
• in the lyrical
• A note on London clubland past and present.
• The duke’s (or devil’s) spawn: Beef Wellington and its twentieth century mutations
• Cooking with Worcestershire, featuring an Appreciation of Marcel Boulestin.
• in the practical
• Robin McDouall’s roast duck with orange stuffing
• Boulestin’s layered salmon terrine from Robin McDouall via Clubland Cooking.
• Brooks’s pie
• Travellers Pie from Clubland Cooking by Robin McDouall
• Smoked trout mousse from Robin McDouall’s Clubland Cooking.
• Robin McDouall’s bread sauce from Clubland Cooking
• Boiled mutton
• Robin McDouall on clubland vegetables along with four bonus recipes
• Robin McDouall’s devilled chicken
• Steak pies sauced with Madeira
• A nineteenth century recipe for beef boiled in beer from Elisabeth Ayrton.

• in the critical
• Another attempt at assessing the state of British foodways: An assessment of Pie Fidelity by Pete Brown.
• That’s my fun day: Sunday supper
• in the lyrical
• Festive miscellany: Robin McDouall on the secular and profane pleasures and pitfalls of Christmas.
• A new dawn? The New York Times begins to recognize British foodways while its reporters engage in the timeless art of culinary innovation.
• Arawak, African and English settlers on Barbados: The origins of Bajan food.
• Food at sea in the age of fighting sail
• in the practical
• Caerphilly with leeks, mustard and ale.
• Caerphilly with leeks, mustard and heavy cream.
• Canape Windsor
• Croute Windsor
• Robin McDouall’s devilled chicken
• Devilled kidneys and something from the Gulf of Mexico via the North Sea (not oil).
• Hot devilled crab
• Rosie Sykes’ devilled chicken livers
• Roast lamb larded with orange peel
• The Rabbit Variations

• in the critical
• We revisit a visionary socialist who brews beer in rural Massachusetts.
• Some strange and wondrous drinks from 1939.
• Some rum.
• A note on the latest extension of the Jamesons brand.
• in the lyrical
• A note on the natures and welcome revival of punch.
• On the mystery of English milk punch.
• Ambrose Heath and olive oil during wartime lead us to question some conventional wisdom concerning the insularity of the island kitchen.
• in the practical
• The cure(s), or, some bloody episodes.
• The soft tomato cocktails of Ambrose Heath transformed into Bloody Marys by the addition of vodka
• Arrack and Port milk punch with tea.
• Benjamin Franklin’s clarified milk punch.
• The britishfoodinamerica milk punch.
• The Escoffier milk punch (with a comment) by Ambrose Heath.
• Ambrose Heath’s Norfolk milk punch.

• in the critical
• Ann Hood, hard times and the comfort of the kitchen.
• An Appreciation of Alex Toft Nielsen and his Cp44.
• in the lyrical
• Confusion now has made her masterpiece: Eugene Walter, his cult of Mobilian chaos and some descriptions of southern foodways.
• An Appreciation of Laurie Colwin.
• in the practical
• Eugene Walter’s ‘ham pate’
• A characteristic British potted cheese that Eugene Walter calls ‘cheese spread’ and claims for the American south.
• Eugene Walter’s ‘chicken custard’ that is really a British batter pudding.
• Eugene Walter’s ‘goober toast.’
• Eugene Walter’s steak and kidney pie
• A southern expression of curried shrimp and lemon rice to enhance it.
• A British lamb pie that Eugene Walter misnames Mobilian.
• A spring chicken from an unlikely source.
• White gingerbread.
• Laurie Colwin’s Spiced Walnuts

• in the critical
• The real, the surreal and the dirty: Perspectives on Colonial Williamsburg, anachronism, authenticity and pirate zombies.
• Notes on the state of Virginia foodways in the early national period.
• Two British cookbooks for wintertime: Buy them both.
• in the lyrical
• Occasional Miscellany: The Peter Pauper Press and its Merrie Christmas Drink Book
• in the practical
• Winter’s Kedgeree
• Crawfish soup
• Watercress soup
• Crabmeat maison
• Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock’s shrimp paste
• Mushroom bread pudding.
• Gingered pot roast
• Ham baked in cider with parsley sauce.
• Ham in Madiera
• Cocktail Recipes from The Peter Pauper Press

• in the critical
• A note on Sandra Sherman’s Fresh From the Past , eighteenth century abundance, including further thoughts on pudding and Jeri Quinzio’s Pudding
• Four exemplary beers in the New England style
• in the lyrical
• Occasional Miscellany: A note on dining, drinking and whoring at college in early New England
• in the practical
• Rabbits, rarebits, toasted cheese and an artifact
• The Rabbit Variations
• Cider cured ham
• An eighteenth century dish of smothered duck
• Eighteenth century Norfolk pudding
• An eighteenth century apple pie
• An eighteenth century dish of pork with onions and mustard from Elizabeth Cleland.

• in the critical
• A note on Irish Oyster Cuisine by Mairin Ui Chomain (Dublin 2004)
• in the lyrical
• A tale of two, Irish, cities.
• In search of the elusive but resilient Snaffles mousse with an Appreciation of Lady Mollie Cusack Smith.
• Complexity, contradiction and horse trading: An Irish journey both historical and familial.
• in the practical
• Chicken with colcannon, black pudding fricassee and whisky sauce.
• Mary Cannon’s recipe for beef cheek
• Oyster stew from an early eighteenth century Irish kitchen manuscript.
• A good early modern sauce for fish from Mary Cannon’s Commonplace Book , edited with commentary by Marjorie Quarton.
• A recipe for Scotch oysters from an Irish source
• Oysters with apples and black pudding
• Calf’s liver with Sherry and smoked paprika
• Mushroom and brandy soup from the Ulster Reform Club.
• The bfia variation on parsnip soup from the Ulster Reform Club.
• Snaffles mousse
• Lady Mollie Cusack Smith’s Bermingham chicken
• Pollo alla Toscana

• in the critical
• Depredations historical and historiographical: A review of Hungry Empire by Lizzie Collingham
• A culinary destination in the West Village of Manhattan.
• A study in conflict and contradiction: Mark Bittman.
• in the lyrical
• A visionary socialist brews beer in rural Massachusetts.
• An Appreciation of Trader Joe’s.
• in the practical
• The Britishfoodinamerica raised pork pie
• A counterintuitively quick recipe for ‘slow’ roasted pork belly with apples, cider, onion and sage.
• Pork Roast in New Milk--Fit for Company
• Lamb stuffed with oysters
• Roast pork chops with rhubarb sauce and sage butter.
• Salmon baked with a smear of English mustard, malt vinegar and herbs.
• A dish of boiled lamb from Pint Shop in Cambridge, England.
• Boiled Fresh Ham
• Boiled Daisy Ham with Vegetables

• in the critical
• A great divide: Mannered Northern ‘lads’ of culinary accomplishment and mundane musical meanderings.
• A study in conflict and contradiction: Mark Bittman.
• Damp squib: “Nigel Slater’s chicken with butterbeans and rosemary.”
• The Cook Book.
• Sea urchins from the stomachs of pigs, exploding chickens and lost food refound; the wide and wild British world of Dorothy Hartley featuring foraging.
• An anomalous name: Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book.
• in the lyrical
• A note on spruce beer.
• Occasional miscellany: A Cookbook for Booksellers.
• Sign of the times.
• Cooking with Worcestershire, featuring an Appreciation of Marcel Boulestin.
• in the practical
• Roast pork chops with rhubarb sauce and sage butter.
• Salmon baked with a smear of English mustard, malt vinegar and herbs.
• Black pudding hash and eggs.
• Yorkshire buck.
• ‘Smoked’ ketchup
• Weeknight chicken with butter beans, a recipe derived from Nigel Slater.
• The Fortnum & Mason Threepenny Mary cocktail for the holidays
• Parsnips baked with sausage and cheese.
• Elisabeth Ayrton’s game with beans
• Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
• Boulestin’s Maltese curry with Worcestershire.
• Boulestin’s duck with brandy, claret and port

• in the critical
• The Cook Book.
• Sea urchins from the stomachs of pigs, exploding chickens and lost food refound; the wide and wild British world of Dorothy Hartley featuring foraging.
• An anomalous name: Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book.
• in the lyrical
• Sign of the times.
• A popular dressing for salad from the early nineteenth century, rendered in verse by Sydney Smith and cited by Jane Grigson.
• in the practical
• Robin McDouall’s tomato ice.
• “Canapés Ivanhoe”
• Jane Grigson’s Lettuce soup
• Curried parsnip soup
• Parsnips baked with sausage and cheese.
• Elisabeth Ayrton’s game with beans
• Fortnum & Mason’s rabbit potted in duck fat
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• Theodora FitzGibbon’s Brussels sprouts.
• Curried onions

• in the critical
• A note on Guinness Foreign Extra.
• A traveler’s note; the beer! the beer!...
  and books!, at Heathrow no less.
• A wolf gives a gift of coddle and champions the can.
• A return, of sorts, to historical form: The Plagiarist in the Kitchen by Jonathan Meades.
• All in the Cooking: An icon of twentieth century Ireland.
• in the lyrical
• More than the dude abides, at least in Dublin if no longer in Bolton across the Irish Sea, being a meditation on Neary’s and Flann O’Brien, with a digression on the first Bloomsday.
• Flann O’Brien hits it out: “Workman’s Friend” revisited.
• in the practical
• Barm Brack
• Dublin coddle.
• Soda bread
• Lax pudding.
• Jonathan Meades’ smoked haddock soup.
• An Irish recipe for curried butter beans from All in the Cooking.
• Irish curry sauce adapted from All in the Cooking
• Dry cured spiced beef based on a recipe from Jane Grigson via Elizabeth David.
• Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
• A stolen Lancashire hotpot

• in the critical
• An Appreciation, with modest reservations, of The New York Times, embedding a review of Flavour by Ruby Tandoh.
• in the lyrical
• Island life: A note on the traditional foodways of Shetland and Orkney.
• A note on some simple puddings even by the standards of Shetland, including some simple recipes
• in the practical
• Alice Bradley’s anchovy savories, which she calls canapes.
• Ruby Tandoh’s favorite chicken pie
• Ruby Tandoh’s fish pie.
• Margaret Stout’s ingenious salt cod pie
• Sassermaet clatch
• Shetland saucermeat
• Saucermeat bronies 
• Orkney pork and kale
• Steamed mince pudding
• Shetland puddeens
• Ruby Tandoh’s gingerbread laced with porter
• Bread sauce
• A clam soup from the Hebrides.
• Tourtiere

• in the critical
• Another neglected outlier: Victor Gordon and The English Cookbook.
• A maelstrom of food, sex and death featuring a few British derivations.
• in the lyrical
• In (admittedly predictable) praise of public houses, their food and their habitués.
• Occasional Miscellany: Strange bedfellows and Scottish tradition in an unexpected guise.
• in the practical
• A nineteenth century recipe for beef boiled in beer and treacle from Elisabeth Ayrton.
•  Victor Gordon’s fried barley from The English Cookbook.
• Devilled pork chops from Victor Gordon’s English Cookbook.
• Imperial swine.
• An “utterly inauthentic” maritime kedgeree.
• Oxtail stew with clove and orange.
• Mulled artichokes
• Oxtail brawn derived from a Victor Gordon recipe.
• Devilled shrimp sauce.
• An Upper Peninsula pasty from Jacob Taylor of Marquette, Michigan.
• Victor Gordon’s “essential salamagundy.”
• Victor Gordon’s “trout and berries.”
• Watercress terrine

• in the critical
• Royal Oak, Cues Lane, Bishopstone, Wiltshire: A Review from our Rural Correspondent.
• in the lyrical
• Letting Jules Verne down: Round the World in Eighty Dishes and its redemptive descendant.
• All that’s old is new again yet again: An Appreciation of Grace Firth, a twentieth century practitioner of the artisanal revival.
• in the practical
• A lamb, lemon and cilantro ciste.
•  An unconventional dish of curried scallops from the Editor.
• Stillroom Cookery boiled beef with carrots and horseradish.
• Curried beer meatballs
• Eggs coddled in beer.
• Stillroom spiced beef.
• Beer cake.
• A stovetop version of British baked beans.
• Pickled rhubarb.
• Bombay bubble & squeak
• In praise of punch, and an outstanding (!!!!) if costly flavored rum, featuring a recipe--for punch, which pirates like(d).
• ‘Ball’ curry, incorporating notions from Henrietta Hervey, Copeland Marks, the Indo-Dutch “fricadellee” and other sources but not involving testicles.
• Country Captain
• The bfia chicken fricassee
• Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
• A formula for 1793 Charleston Light Dragoons’ punch.
• Rumbledethumps
• Beef shank and oyster stew with Port.

• in the critical
• Considering A History of Chowder: Four Centuries of a New England Meal.
• A note on Good Sandwiches and Picnic Dishes by Ambrose Heath, featuring a description of the Bookmaker.
• A kind of consideration of toast.
• in the lyrical
• In defense of John Montagu, creator of the sandwich and so much more.
• A note about the superiority of the English sandwich, featuring recipes along with praise for The London Ritz Book of Afternoon Tea, along with other attractions, one of them less savory.
• Occasional miscellany: All that’s old is new again.
• in the practical
• Cod chowder.
• Clear Rhode Island chowder.
• A clam soup from the Hebrides.
• An eccentric shrimp soup laced with rum.
• June Platt’s Puffed Boston Common Crackers
• Curried crackers.
• Cucumber and egg sandwiches from the Savoy hotel.
• Tomato sandwiches.
• Smoked salmon and whisky sandwiches from the London Ritz.
• Michael Smith’s lettuce sandwiches
• Ambrose Heath’s English meatballs.
• Helen Simpson’s mayonnaise from the London Ritz.
• Sardine sandwiches
• Michael Smith’s tomato curry and orange butter.
• Tuna and bacon sandwiches from Ambrose Heath.
• Fast potted ham with piccalilli.
• Ambrose Heath’s ‘Beef a la Wellington’ sandwich filling.

• in the critical
• The North remembers: Robert Owen Brown and the revival of Lancastrian cooking.
• in the lyrical
• It happened in Vermont: An unlikely time and place of publication.
• Found in California via Surrey, the American south and even New England, and a note on Row 34 in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
• in the practical
• Chicken with cucumber.
• A Northern terrine of liver and black pudding.
• Pork chops with piccalilli
• An African-American kidney pie by way of Britain.
• Veal kidneys, simply fried by Edna Lewis.
• A liver pudding that resembles English haslet from the African-American south.
• Edna Lewis’s panfried oysters.
• Edna Lewis’s skillet scallions
• Robert Owen Brown’s Lancashire baked eggs
• Robert Owen Brown’s smoked mackerel with blue cheese, spinach and potatoes.
• A rag pudding from Robert Owen Brown and its surprising variation.

• in the critical
• Finding the middle way in high style at the Pint Shop in Cambridge, England.
• Narragansett ‘Allie’s Donuts Double Chocolate Porter.’
• The culinary oddity that is Cambridge, featuring a review of The Cambridgeshire Cook Book.
• in the lyrical
• Shameless plug; buy Petits Propos Culinaires 104.
• A note on Cambridge sausages.
• A note about English spiced beef and the mystery of its American origins.
• An Appreciation of Richard Bradley and , in an unconventional way, of ketchup.
• in the practical
• A dish of boiled lamb from Pint Shop in Cambridge, England.
• Slow roasted spiced lamb from the Shelford Delicatessen outside Cambridge, England.
• Francatelli’s Cambridge sausage pudding.
• Short ribs with ale and treacle.
• Pork and asparagus pie.
• Dry cured spiced beef based on a recipe from Jane Grigson via Elizabeth David.
• Spiced beef based on Henry Sarson’s robust wartime wet cure.
• An innovative spiced beef recipe that borrows its technique but not its spicing from Danny Bowien.
• Richard Bradley’s instructions “To boil Fresh Salmon.”
• Jane Grigson’s Crème Brûlée, which really is burnt cream.
• A modernist dish of liver and bacon from 1732 via Richard Bradley.
• Rum and Madeira ketchup
• Richard Bradley’s red bean ketchup, which is really not ketchup but is really good

• in the critical
• A multicultural gem that beats the odds embedded in its genre: Edward Lee’s Smoke & Pickles: Recipes and Stories from a New Southern Kitchen.
• Cognitive Cooking with Chef Watson: Recipes for innovation from IBM and the Institute of Culinary Education.
• in the lyrical
• An appreciation of Vincent Price and his last film.
• Uses and abuses of history, philosophy and cookery: A case study of Hannah Woolley.
• An Appreciation of Richard Bradley and , in an unconventional way, of ketchup.
• in the practical
• Rum and Madeira ketchup
• An eighteenth century ketchup for ship captains from the iconic Hannah Glasse.
• Fast potted salmon
• A modernist dish of liver and bacon from 1732 via Richard Bradley.
• A better tomato ketchup, from Oxford, Mississippi
• Edward Lee’s curry pork pies
• Strawberry ketchup
• Cucumber ketchup
• Richard Bradley’s red bean ketchup, which is really not ketchup but is really good
• Lemon ketchup, “or pickle.”
• Edward Lee’s cured strawberries

• in the critical
• A review of the estimable Angeline in New Orleans, embedding two recipes for posset
• An Appreciation of canned fish, including considerations of Tin Fish Gourmet by Barbara-jo McIntosh and Rust by Jonathan Waldman.
• in the lyrical
• British food between the wars, in city, country and neither place, featuring the habits culinary, artistic and amorous of Bloomsbury.
• in the practical
• David Garnett’s liver, sage and onion skuets
• Elizabeth Raper Grant’s pork marinated in Madeira
• Elizabeth Raper Grant’s eighteenth century “sauce for any meat broiled on spits” or otherwise roasted
• Mrs. Grant’s ‘anchovie tosts’
• Bloody cod
• A spread of ‘Whales’ fashioned from canned sardines
• Sardine and blue cheese sandwiches
• Canned peas cooked with bacon and lettuce

• in the critical
• A boyish celebrity chef celebrates an illustrious forbear in The Pleasures of the Table: Rediscovering Theodora FitzGibbon by Donal Skehan.
• in the lyrical
• The Rescue Archaeologists: Florence White, Helen Edden, Raymond Postgate and the salvation of British foodways, featuring an excursion to the lost prewar world of Sweden.
• Our Rural Correspondent sails into history aboard the Empress of Canada.
• in the practical
• Westmoreland three deckers
• Theodora FitzGibbon’s variations on the devilled egg.
• An unexpected stuffing of beef for birds.
• Theodora FitzGibbon’s Brussels sprouts.
• Pork ciste.
• Theodora FitzGibbon’s ham in Guinness with apple sauce
• Theodora FitzGibbon’s devilled steak and kidney stew or pie
• Theodora FitzGibbon’s ‘stuffed’ pork chops.
• An unconventional dish of curried scallops from the Editor
• Our Rural Correspondent’s recipe for Kidneys Turbigo
• Observations and variations on Worcestershire and its permutations, highlighting three recipes.
• Mushroom ketchup.
• White gingerbread

• in the critical
• A Bible even the Editor could appreciate.
• Clarissa Dickson Wright does it again with The Haggis: A Little History.
• Our first monthly miscellany, being a book of surprises.
• Shameless PLUG: Buy the October issue of Petits Propos Culinaires.
• The global wanderings of marmalade featuring a melancholy note on American Exceptionalism.
• in the lyrical
• A culinary imponderable: The Scottish aversion to pork, featuring a vivisection of ‘The Riddle of the Scottish Pig’ by Eric Ross.
• An Appreciation of Belhaven beers.
• The unexpected origin of Shepherds’ pie.
• A note on the origin of Scottish foodways, featuring a southward rather than easterly gaze.
• Holiday Gift Guide: Kitchen Gear, Drinking Vessels, Food and Housewares
• Holiday Gift Guide: Clothing & Accessories
• Holiday Gift Guide: Books
• in the practical
• Jo Macsween’s Mungo pie.
• An accessible haggis recipe.
• A whisky sauce for haggis
• Scotch broth.
• Oatmeal soup.
• Beef ‘olives’ with skirlie.
• Duck breast with a sort of Scottish barley sauce.
• Savory oatmeal pudding
• A Scottish scallop pie.
• Christian Isobel Johnstone’s “Smoked Scotch sausages, to keep and eat cold.”
• Scottish mince.
• The britishfoodinamerica shepherds’ pie
• A Scottish fish pie with a simpler English variation embedded in the Notes.
• Pheasant braised in whisky cream.
• A Scottish curry for chicken or rabbit.
• Skirlie
• How to Make Tea Properly, from What Shall We Have For Breakfast?
• Trout fried in oatmeal
• Marmalade sandwiches.
• Marmalade trifle

• in the critical
• Shameless PLUG: Buy the October issue of Petits Propos Culinaires.
• Our first monthly miscellany, being a book of surprises.
• Some handy books for cooking savory pies (and one that is not so handy).
• Traditional Yorkshire Food
• An illustrated Appreciation of Hochstadter’s Slow & Low.
• in the lyrical
• Holiday Gift Guide: Kitchen Gear, Drinking Vessels, Food and Housewares
• Holiday Gift Guide: Clothing & Accessories
• Holiday Gift Guide: Books
• An Now For Something Completely Different: The British Tradition of The Savory Pie
• A note on Medley pie, embedding recipes for it.
• in the practical
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• Turkey bread pudding
• How to Make Tea Properly, from What Shall We Have For Breakfast?
• A deconstructed pie of chicken and leek
• Chicken, leek and bacon pies
• A pie made with chicken, capers and corned beef or, if you dare, cured tongue.
• Venison pie another way
• Sea Pie
• Beef and mushroom pies
• Colonel Arthur Kenney-Herbert’s steak, ham and oyster pie.
• A Yorkshire ‘ham cake’ that is actually a simple pie.
• Black pudding and rhubarb pasties.
• Oyster and bacon pie.
• Resurrection pie.
• The Editor’s raised pork pie
• Mrs. Beeton’s steak & kidney pie.
• The Editor’s steak and kidney pie.
• Pleasant House Bakery’s
  mushroom and kale pie.
• Mushroom Pies
• An eighteenth century oyster and kidney pie.
• Steak pies sauced with Madeira
• Sea Pie
• Beef and mushroom pies
• Pork ciste.
• ‘Philadelphia’ beef and kidney pie.
• Giblets prepared another eighteenth century way, in a pie with steak
• Oyster and sausage pie

• in the critical
• An illustrated Appreciation of Hochstadter’s Slow & Low.
• The mysteries of Mrs. Framji’s chicken curry, or , an assay into microhistory, embedding a review of The Raj at Table by David Burton.
• Pat Chapman remembers the kitchens of the Raj, partially by proxy.
• Andrew Tobin samples summer ciders
• Our Political Correspondent reveals to the Editor that art follows the life of imperial Russia at Bob Bob Ricard in London
• in the lyrical
• Imperial ecstasies, or, the cuisine of British India.
• The multiplication of mulligatawny
• Our reluctant correspondent recounts her time in Tokyo, including her introduction to a memorable cook and her Indian recipes.
• Notes on Country Captain
• in the practical
• The devil’s universal paste.
• Shikarree sauce.
• Mrs. Framji’s chicken
• The Editor’s weeknight curry.
• ‘Ball’ curry, incorporating notions from Henrietta Hervey, Copeland Marks, the Indo-Dutch “fricadellee” and other sources but not involving testicles.
• ‘Summer Hill’ pork chops.
• Peninsular & Oriental lamb korma.
• Curried cod
• A French inflected mulligatawny
• Mulligatawny a Chicago way
• Mulligatawny Madhur Jaffrey′s way
• Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert’s clear mulligatunny.
• Pat Chapman′s incongruous potato bacon cakes
• Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert’s 1891 ‘Ceylon’ curry of shrimp and cucumber. 
• Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert’s mashed potato chutney
• Lakshna Jha’s chicken biryani with raita
• Mrs. D‘Sousa’s Rice with lemon and cardamom
• Biddlesdale breakfast curry
• Country Captain
• Country Captain a plainer way.
• Country Captain two even plainer ways.
• A Country Captain, southern style.
• Cecily Brownstone’s Country Captain.
• Bobby Flay’s Country Captain.

• in the critical
• Our Political Correspondent reveals to the Editor that art follows the life of imperial Russia at Bob Bob Ricard in London
• A note on Sandra Sherman’s Fresh From the Past, eighteenth century abundance, including further thoughts on pudding and Jeri Quinzio’s Pudding.
• A Feast of Ice & Fire: The Official Companion Cookbook to George R. R. Martin’s A Game of Thrones by Chelsea Monroe-Cassel & Sariann Lehrer
• Art and Appetite: American Painting, Culture, and Cuisine at the Art Institute of Chicago.
• in the lyrical
• Pudding: A Global History by Jeri Quinzio
  (or, they published that?), with a reluctant Appreciation of Sir Benjamin Thompson, Reichsgraf von Rumford, and a digression concerning Robert May.
• in the practical
• Red Army Borscht
• Biddlesdale breakfast curry
• Potted gizzards.
• A seventeenth century boiled salad.
• An eighteenth century dish of pork with onions and mustard from Elizabeth Cleland.
• Pork chops with mustard emulsion.
• Rumford soup
• Parson Woodforde’s giblet soup
• Giblet soup prepared an early nineteenth century Scottish way
• Giblets prepared another eighteenth century way, in a pie with steak
• Beef brisket stuffed with bacon, oysters and parsley
• Cider cured ham
• An eighteenth century dish of smothered duck
• Eighteenth century Norfolk pudding
• An eighteenth century apple pie

• in the critical
• Art and Appetite: American Painting, Culture, and Cuisine at the Art Institute of Chicago.
• Special bonus review: “Devouring Books” at the Ryerson Library of the Art Institute of Chicago.
• Beer (of a sort) in the City of Light
• Our Rural Correspondent heads north
  for jet and fish: A visit to Whitby.
• Owen & Engine extends the British beachhead in Chicago.
• The Vintage Tea Party Book by Angel Adoree, or: What if Tim Burton threw a tea party?
• The R’evolution starts now
• in the lyrical
• More Christmas suggestions, two of them homemade: Things boozy.
• Offcuts and outliers part 2, featuring decidedly earthy issues, if in different ways and including a 1940 recipe for potted cheese.
• Offcuts and outliers, Part I: A sort of rant involving the decline of culinary standards with some modest suggestions for addressing the problem, including notes on offal, pie birds, Queen Victoria and hot girlie action.
• Our annual collection of holiday gift ideas.
• in the practical
• A simple carpetbagger steak from Fanny Hill’s Cook Book
• A foolproof savory and highly seasoned potted cheese including anchovies for toast (preferred) or crackers; a bit of a devil too.
• A good crab salad from the Fanny Hill Cook Book, or, ‘Marquise d’Salade with crafty ebbing undressing’
• A wartime courtbouillion: The vicomte de Mauduit’s Truite Au Bleu.
• A premonition of Husk and Nobu: In 1940, a French aristocrat forages for British food, including crawfish.
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Turkey bread pudding
• Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• A fool for Thanksgiving, or just for a Fall day
• A pie made with chicken, capers and corned beef or, if you dare, cured tongue.
• Beef shank and oyster stew with Port.
• Calvin Schwabe’s ancient Roman ‘small bits stew.’
• Black pudding with apples and Madeira.
• Autumn Pudding

• in the critical
• Beer (of a sort) in the City of Light
• Our Rural Correspondent heads north
  for jet and fish: A visit to Whitby.
• Owen & Engine extends the British beachhead in Chicago.
• The Vintage Tea Party Book by Angel Adoree, or: What if Tim Burton threw a tea party?
• The R’evolution starts now
• in the lyrical
• Our annual collection of holiday gift ideas.
• An Appreciation of Plimoth Plantation and James Deetz
• A note of thanks to our readers with observations on our fourth anniversary.
• A Menu For an English Dinner Served by the Editor to 16 Goddesses
• A pizza delivery resulting from an unlikely source prompts some consideration of things Newark--and Fluxus! featuring George Maciunas, Allan Kaprow and an online exhibition gallery.
• Offcuts and outliers, Part I: A sort of rant involving the decline of culinary standards with some modest suggestions for addressing the problem, including notes on offal, pie birds, Queen Victoria and hot girlie action.
• Another sally into the obscure, or, an inquiry into the origin of Rainwater Madeira, featuring notes on Madeira: Wine Cakes & Sauce by André Simon & Elizabeth Craig.
• No small surprise: The unexpected utility of cheap fake Madeira.
• An Appreciation of the Pudding Cloth.
• An appreciation of Vincent Price and his last film.
• A meditation on oysters from Nancy Diekmann, Our Traveling Correspondent.
• in the practical
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Turkey bread pudding
• Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• A fool for Thanksgiving, or just for a Fall day
• A second annual selection of Thanksgiving recipes inspired by Giving Thanks.
• Portuguese roast clams, sausage & cabbage.
• A pie made with chicken, capers and corned beef or, if you dare, cured tongue.
• Beef shank and oyster stew with Port.
• Calvin Schwabe’s ancient Roman ‘small bits stew.’
• Braised pork shoulder with rhubarb sauce.
• Peach Jam a Vintage Way, from our own Stephanie Dearmont.
• Veal kidneys Duke of Clarence style, or, implausibly, ‘Rognons de Veau, Duc de Clarence.’
• Florence Petty’s beef trifle with walnut gravy.
• Black pudding with apples and Madeira.
• An Edwardian devil
• A variation on Ronald Johnson’s deviled kidneys.
• Ronald Johnson’s horseradish ice cream for roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
• Ronald Johnson’s chicken livers Madeira.
• Bill Neal’s liver and cornmeal pudding

• in the critical
• A new oyster bar and fish house in New Orleans: Pêche Seafood Grill.
• The R’evolution starts now
• New Orleans: A Food Biography is badly written, promotes anachronism and traduces the British culinary tradition.
• in the lyrical
• Another sally into the obscure, or, an inquiry into the origin of Rainwater Madeira, featuring notes on Madeira: Wine Cakes & Sauce by André Simon & Elizabeth Craig.
• A note on the 1793 Charleston Light Dragoons’ Punch.
• An Appreciation of the Pudding Lady, embedding commentary on recent books by Maggie Andrews and Ellen Ross.
• No small surprise: The unexpected utility of cheap fake Madeira.
• Firearms and food: A bold policy proposal for right-thinking people.
• Cooking with Worcestershire, featuring an Appreciation of Marcel Boulestin.
• in the practical
• Chicken and green olives braised in Madeira.
• Veal kidneys Duke of Clarence style, or, implausibly, ‘Rognons de Veau, Duc de Clarence.’
• Celery braised in Madeira from Florence Aaron and Paula Peck
• Three drinks made from Madeira, one with an inadvertently contentious title, another that sounds demure but packs a punch and the other a punch itself.
• ‘English pudding’ from the island of Madeira.
• A formula for 1793 Charleston Light Dragoons’ punch.
• Florence Petty’s beef trifle with walnut gravy.
• Celery and cheese soufflé: A pudding by another name from The Pudding Lady.
• Florence Petty’s golden pudding.
• Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
• Boulestin’s duck with brandy, claret and port
• Asparagus and mushrooms with Worcestershire on toast.
• Madeira syllabub
• Daisy Redman’s chicken fricassee with Madeira
• Steak pies sauced with Madeira
• Haddock baked in Madeira
• Black pudding with apples and Madeira.
• Jane Grigson’s mushroom and Madeira sauce
• Ronald Johnson’s chicken livers Madeira.

• in the critical
• The Churchill Tavern: Romance and ruin in midtown south
• Downton Abbey and the drive for ratings, featuring a review of the Unofficial Downton Abbey Cookbook by Emily Ansara Baines.
  
• The fall and rise of the Irish cheese.
• in the lyrical
• An Appreciation of the footnote, with an illustrative digression on Worcestershire sauce.
  
• Cooking with Worcestershire, featuring an Appreciation of Marcel Boulestin.
• A note on Ascendancy foodways with a digression on Irish stew and a short detour to Boston.
  
• In search of the elusive but resilient Snaffles mousse with an Appreciation of Lady Mollie Cusack Smith.
• A glass of the Irish please.
• A review of Edwardian Glamour Cooking (Without Tears)
• in the practical
• Boulestin’s duck with brandy, claret and port
• Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
• Beef stewed in Worcestershire.
• Boulestin’s Maltese curry with Worcestershire.
• Asparagus and mushrooms with Worcestershire on toast.
• Boulestin’s beet fricassee.
• Boulestin’s Worcestershire curry sauce
• Boulestin’s peas with bacon, lettuce and onion.
• Lamb chops ‘Portmanteau’
• Lady Mollie Cusack Smith’s Bermingham chicken
• Lettuce with cheese sauce
• Mushroom mousse with fried mushrooms
• Snaffles mousse
• Pollo alla Toscana
• Chicken Asquith
• Dublin lawyer.
• Pork ciste.
• Glamorous Edwardian recipes
• Cutlets Edward VII
• Anchovy tomato sauce

• in the critical
• Nostra culpa redeemed, perhaps, by some advice about celery.
• A note on cooking with beer, including reviews of Beer and Vittles by Elizabeth Craig and Beer and Skittles by Richard Boston.
• Ferry Plaza Seafood and the Hog Island Oyster Company: Two oyster bars at the San Francisco Ferry Terminal and a note about clam soup on the west coast.
• An Appreciation of British Soups
• in the lyrical
• Winter Market: The San Francisco Ferry Terminal
• The anomaly that is stew.
• An Appreciation of the footnote, with an illustrative digression on Worcestershire sauce.
  
• in the practical
• An adaptation of Charles Francatelli’s austere and alluring beef stew for the working classes for service with suet dumplings
• Hotchpot
• Sussex stewed steak
• Potted Sussex steak
• Dublin coddle.
• China Chilo
• A celery salad for your stew.
• A couple of creative consommés featuring shellfish (or not).
• Curried cauliflower soup.
• Artichoke Soup.
• Onion and cider soup
• A nineteenth century recipe for beef boiled in beer from Elisabeth Ayrton.
• Cabbage stewed in beer.
• Elizabeth Craig’s gravy with beer for steak.

• in the critical
• Our Graduate Correspondent visits Los Angeles and gets some surprises, including Ye Olde King’s Head.
• A raucous evening of Restoration Comedy.
• Our Rural Correspondent visits The Anchor in Oxford.
• Our Rural Correspondent somehow finds
  The Oxford Arms
• Our annual roundup of noteworthy books.
• The resilient British brewing tradition: Eight transatlantic case studies.
• in the lyrical
• Our annual holiday gift guide.
• Shops for Cookbooks
• To use.
• To eat.
• One of our College Correspondents eats a kebab and bonds with (some of) the local denizens of York.
• Lost and found; the search for Ongar ham cake and other Essex foodways.
• A festive holiday Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• in the practical
• Ham cake.
• A ham pie unaccountably called a cake from Your Granny’s Cook Book by Sheila Hutchins.
• Epping sausages.
• Elisabeth Ayrton’s own recipe for grilled steak with black coffee.
• First, the Editor’s dry cured spiced beef
• Second, spiced beef based on Henry Sarson’s robust wartime wet cure.
• Jane Grigson’s potted cheese.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• Marmalade trifle
• Potted shrimp
• Potted crab.
• Potted ham.
• Potted Crawfish
• Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
• Broccoli & Brussels sprout casserole

• in the critical
• The resilient British brewing tradition: Eight transatlantic case studies.
• The global wanderings of marmalade featuring a melancholy note on American Exceptionalism.
• in the lyrical
• More notes on potted foods, this time toward the onset of winter.
• Reflections on snapper soup.
• in the practical
• Jane Grigson’s potted cheese.
• Marmalade sandwiches.
• Marmalade trifle
• An eighteenth century recipe for pickled eggs.
• Pickled oysters.
• Pickled shrimp.
• Another eighteenth century recipe, for pickled fennel.
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Turkey bread pudding
• Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• Potted shrimp
• Potted crab.
• Potted ham.
• Potted Crawfish

• in the critical
• The Standard Tap in Philadelphia; Yards and other ales in cask.
• The rise and rise of rhubarb, including some recommended products.
• in the lyrical
• Reflections on snapper soup.
• An appreciation of Margaret Yardley Potter, or, a sexy Philadelphia Story other than the film.
• The first rhubarb recipes, involving questions about historical identity.
• in the practical
• Cocktails courtesy of Margaret Yardley Potter with a digression to water ice.
• Rhubarb sauces for fish… and other things too.
• A note on a sort of snapper soup with a recipe featuring annotations.
• ‘Philadelphia’ beef and kidney pie.
• Bill Neal’s Cheese straws, which are really crackers.
• Madeira syllabub

• in the critical
• An unexpected delight: Canteen.
• A vindication of sorts for Midwestern beer.
• A bagel by any other name?
• Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.
• in the lyrical
• The mysterious Florence Cowles and her thousands of sandwiches, featuring many sardines, musings on architecture and the unlikely Dafigconuchocarbutt.
• The elegant English sandwiches of Hilda Leyel.
• An Appreciation of Sir Henry Thompson.
• The Oyster Loaf:
• in the practical
• Mrs. Leyel’s incongruously named ‘Crème D’Haricots’ sandwich.
• Dorothy Hartley’s good watercress sandwich.
• An imaginative corned beef sandwich.
• The Delhi sandwich.
• Blueberry chutney.
• Three roast beef sandwiches, one of them by any other (appropriate) name.
• Tomato sandwiches.
• A complicated ham sandwich allegedly inspired by Sherlock Holmes.
• Oswell Blakeston’s glamourous Turkish sandwiches along with two other special bonus creations.
• Roast beef salad.
• Watercress and orange salad.
• A Pleasant House salad.
• A Salad Inspired by Sir Henry Thompson

• in the critical
• Oysters in a Little Town.
• Three Men, a Diary and a Dog or riverine and pooterish fare from our Rural Correspondent, being the return of our occasional series on food in books.
• Tracks, Penn Station: the other train station oyster bar in New York
• An enduring if annoying New York legend; the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal.
• Imitation and innovation at Shaw’s Crab House.
• Failure in New Orleans, or, the demise of Desire.
• An unlikely pilgrimage to the Matunuck Oyster Bar.
• Oysters at Lüke in New Orleans.
• Oysters at Randall & Aubin in London.
• Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.
• in the lyrical
• Oysters outside the ‘R’ months?
• Tribute to the Oyster
• The Oyster Loaf:
• On oysters: The British origin of a robust American tradition.
• in the practical
• Lady Clark’s oyster sauce for steaks.
• A robust Rhode Island mignonette.
• A sauce for oysters from Little Town in New York City.
• To shuck an oyster.
• An ancient English sauce of oysters
• Oyster and sausage pie
• Salmon with oysters an Irish way.
• Broiled oysters from the
  Union Oyster House in Boston.
• Oyster stew.
• An eighteenth century oyster and kidney pie.
• Hangtown Fry.
• Grilled oysters.
• Alexandre Dumas’ supermignonette for oysters.

• in the critical
• An enduring if annoying New York legend; the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal.
• Imitation and innovation at Shaw’s Crab House.
• Failure in New Orleans, or, the demise of Desire.
• An unlikely pilgrimage to the Matunuck Oyster Bar.
• Oysters at Lüke in New Orleans.
• Oysters at Randall & Aubin in London.
• Cakes and ale… and oysters in London at the aptly named English Restaurant hard by Spitalfields Market.
• A review of two books on oysters that follow different paths, featuring a digression on the lifestyle of the fortunate oyster.
• in the lyrical
• On oysters: The British origin of a robust American tradition.
• An Appreciation of the oyster, on Nantucket and in New Orleans, from our Reluctant Correspondent.
• Hemingway eats oysters in Paris.
• A poem about oysters from Jonathan Swift.
• in the practical
• Oyster stew.
• An eighteenth century oyster and kidney pie.
• A note on steak & oyster tartare, with a recipe.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• An oyster omelet.
• Hangtown Fry.
• Grilled oysters.
• Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s oyster, celeriac and leek soup
• Alexandre Dumas’ supermignonette for oysters.
• Angels on horseback.

• in the critical
• Two contrasting cookbooks hot off the press, from April Bloomfield and Brian Yarvin.
• Bon Appétit climbs our Wall of Shame and publishes some good recipes in the process.
• A tale of two critiques: Our Rural Correspondent considers Tender by Nigel Slater.
• in the lyrical
• An Appreciation of Ronald Johnson
• Our Reluctant Correspondent likes Jane Grigson, visits farmers’ markets and cooks sorrel soup.
• in the practical
• Sorrel Soup
• Watercress soup.
• Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
• Ronald Johnson’s horseradish ice cream for roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
• A batter pudding of bacon, goat cheese and zucchini.
• Ronald Johnson’s colonial chicken pudding.
• Crispy sole with anchovy cream.
• Ronald Johnson’s chicken livers Madeira.
• A variation on Ronald Johnson’s deviled kidneys.
• Scotch pies
• Chicken, leek and bacon pies
• Beef and mushroom pies

• in the critical
• Bon Appétit climbs our Wall of Shame and publishes some good recipes in the process.
• Wall of Shame special bonus item: Ruth Reichl resorts to unfortunate phrasing in Saveur.
• A cautionary tale from Publican in Chicago.
• The West Town Tavern in Chicago continues to thrive and thrill, with a little help from Becker Lane Organic Farm.
• in the lyrical
• The globalization of Chicago foodways, featuring the transformation of Bridgeport and an Appreciation of Art and Chelsea Jackson at Pleasant House.
• The British brewing style lands in Chicago.
• in the practical
• Pleasant House Bakery’s
  mushroom and kale pie.
• Basic pie crust
• Scotch pies
• Chicken, leek and bacon pies
• Beef and mushroom pies
• Braised Short Ribs from West Town Tavern
• Fennel salad from the West Town Tavern
• Brussels sprouts the West Town Tavern way
• West Town Tavern’s ‘beer cheese’
• Pork ciste.
• Brown bread.
• Tea bread.

• in the critical
• Wall of Shame special bonus item: Ruth Reichl resorts to unfortunate phrasing in Saveur.
• Go to Gravy, but only for Mr. Hollins and the food.
• Is There an Irish Cuisine?
• Wall of Shame
• in the lyrical
• The fall and rise of the Irish cheese.
• Workman’s Friend
• A wolf gives a gift of coddle and champions the can.
• A note about Dublin coddle.
• A note on Guinness Foreign Extra.
• in the practical
• Ham in cider with celery and raisin sauce.
• Oatmeal pancakes with bacon.
• Beef Guinness.
• Corned beef braised in Guinness
• Dublin coddle.
• Dublin lawyer.
• Roast chicken an Irish way.
• Ballymalloe Irish Stew.
• Pork ciste.
• Brown bread.
• Tea bread.
• Potted shrimp
• Potted salmon.

• in the critical
• Go to Gravy, but only for Mr. Hollins and the food.
• North and south in both geography and metaphor, or a review of Northern Hospitality: Cooking by the Book in New England by Keith Stavely & Kathleen Fitzgerald
• The soul of a vanished world; a restaurant review of Husk in Charleston, South Carolina.
• in the lyrical
• A poem on potted meat.
• An Appreciation of the anchovy, featuring E. S. Dallas, other lubricious subjects and embedded recipes.
• Our Education Correspondent chronicles the return of the heritage pig.
• in the practical
• Potted chicken and ham.
• Potted trout.
• Potted tongue.
• Potted crab.
• Potted salmon.
• `Melted Butter:` a misnomer and once The Only Sauce.
• Chicken bog with sausage.
• Anchovy essence
• A curry of shrimp… and pears.
• Potted beef.
• Potted shrimp
• Potted mushrooms.
• Potted calf’s liver
• Potted ham.

• in the critical
• Perfidious Albion: A restaurant review.
• A review of A History of English Food by Clarissa Dickson Wright and its reviewers
• Roast beef, ovens and spits; or, all that’s old is new again.
• in the lyrical
• The wine of choice in the Age of Revolution, or, Madeira the muse and its uses, with two book reviews.
• An Appreciation of the Be-Ro cookbook through eight decades and forty-one iterations.
• Boxing Day
• Christmas Day
• A festive holiday Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• in the practical
• Mushroom ketchup.
• Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
• A deconstructed pie of chicken and leek
• Broccoli & Brussels sprout casserole
• White gingerbread
• Daisy Redman’s chicken fricassee with Madeira
• Steak pies sauced with Madeira
• Haddock baked in Madeira
• Black pudding with apples and Madeira.
• Jane Grigson’s mushroom and Madeira sauce
• Madeira syllabub
• Double or nothing roast beef
• Yorkshire pudding
• Spiced Beef
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• Books for Holiday Gifting
• Food and Drink Gifts for the Holidays
• Kitchen, Household and Fashion Gifts for the Holidays.

• in the critical
• A review of two new books, on milk and on beer: Which would you choose?
• Punting and Eating in Oxford: The Cherwell Boathouse
• in the lyrical
• Briny bets for the eve of Thanksgiving.
• Saveur roasts six turkeys; we weigh in with two
• The minor mystery of ‘dolphin cheese.’
• An Appreciation of Plimoth Plantation and James Deetz
• in the practical
• Books for Holiday Gifting
• Food and Drink Gifts for the Holidays
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• A second annual selection of Thanksgiving recipes inspired by Giving Thanks.
• Lock-Ober lobster stew
• Oyster stew
• A simple clam soup
• Parsnips and turnips with ginger
• Curried onions
• Glazed onions
• Corn pudding
• A fool for Thanksgiving, or just for a Fall day
• The Rabbit Variations

• in the critical
• A review of two new books, on milk and on beer: Which would you choose?
• Punting and Eating in Oxford: The Cherwell Boathouse
• Pizza Delivery: Elizabeth David, Rabbits, Kirsch, and More
• in the lyrical
• An appreciation of Vincent Price and his last film.
• Rabbits, rarebits, toasted cheese and an artifact.
• The minor mystery of ‘dolphin cheese.’
• in the practical
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• Tourtiere
• Rappie pie
• The Rabbit Variations
• A Parmesan custard with anchovy toast from Rowley Leigh
• Cheese and egg soup
• Jane Grigson’s potted cheese
• Recipes that pair cheese with fish; a heretical notion?
• Two Recipes for Mac and Cheese, and a Stilton Walnut Pasta

• in the critical
• Of Plumbers’ Flares and Flambéed Pears:
• Notes from Canada on How to Cook Fish: Canadian Fish Cook Book
• in the lyrical
• A meditation on Canadian foodways
• Further thoughts on sea pie in North America provoked by the Editor’s glance through an exemplary little Canadian cookbook.
• Salt in the service of seasoning and the seasons, and a beautiful child born of need: the Atlantic fricot.
• Some thoughts from the Gaspé Peninsula on the use of herbs.
• in the practical
• Tourtiere
• Rappie pie
• Cipaille the oldest way
• Cipaille a postmodern way
• Cipaille another way, with triple decks
• Sea Pie
• Recipes and notations for fricot and its dumplings.
• Acadian stuffed dumplings.
• Herbes salées
• Chicken Fricassee with White Sauce From Révérende Mère Caron
• Drunkard’s soup
• Beet and caper salad
• Autumn Salad with Honey-Broiled Apples
• Cherry pudding

• in the critical
• Phoebe Dinsmore and the Editor visit a struggling British outpost in New Orleans: Feast.
• Beer in London
• An appreciation of Westerhall rum
• in the lyrical
• Outlaw elements and culinary adaptation:
• An appreciation of Richard Ligon, featuring some discussion of a new book, The Sugar Barons: Family, Corruption, Empire and War, by Matthew Parker.
• The curious case of the proliferating pepperpot and its strange excursion north --or not.
• Rumbullion and killdevil, or: Rum, the spirit of the Indies.
• in the practical
• A Bermudan salad from Outerbridge’s
• Pork and mirliton pie
• Susan Spicer’s crab pelau
• Guyanese pepperpot
• Coconut bread
• Red bean and rum soup
• A citrus pie
• Sauerbraten [at britishfoodinamerica! ?]
• Nelson’s Caribbean ‘parfait.’
• Jamaican rum infusions
• A note on brine for pork or possibly beef.
• Sangaree and Other Rum Drinks
• Curried tomato salad
• Phoebe Dinsmore searches for the real, green (unripe, even) Caribbean salad thing.

• in the critical
• Beer in London
• An appreciation of Westerhall rum
• in the lyrical
• Arawak, African and English settlers on Barbados: The origins of Bajan food.
• Rumbullion and killdevil, or: Rum, the spirit of the Indies.
• Planters Punch - a poem
• A note on China Chilo
• in the practical
• Sangaree and Other Rum Drinks
• Marinated Bajan chicken and carrots
• Barbecued chicken
• Chicken baked with lime & thyme
• Bajan crab backs
• Three simple and sublime Caribbean soups
• Bajan souse and pudding
• Curried tomato salad
• Phoebe Dinsmore searches for the real, green (unripe, even) Caribbean salad thing.
• A note on Bajan mock apple sauce.
• Coconut ice cream
• China Chilo

• in the critical
• A Review of Tea & Sympathy, NYC
• A note on some cheeses… from New Jersey
• in the lyrical
• A note on China Chilo
• Food at sea in the age of fighting sail
• Sea pie: A saga of innovation and transformation
• A note on the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company.
• in the practical
• China Chilo
• Sea Pie
• Duck with lettuce and peas
• Lobscouse
• Corned beef braised in Guinness
• Kidneys in onions
• Bacon and Mushroom Roly Poly
• Peninsular & Oriental lamb korma.
• Maritime Soup
• A note on pease pudding, or, mariners’ fare in the seventeenth century.
• The Salad in Winter--and Spring

• in the critical
• Wartime Cookery, featuring not only imposters but also erotomania
• It left a bad taste: The Editor considers The Taste of War: World War Two and the Battle for Food by Lizzie Collingham
• The Curmudgeonly Raconteur doubles down on St. John with the Editor.
• in the lyrical
• Portman Pudding and Snoek Piquant:
• An Appreciation of the sheep’s head, both at the table and on the page.
• A Note from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean) about austerity in Gloucestershire.
• An Appreciation of the Approval Matrix, Paula Deen & “English Peas”
• in the practical
• A nod to Easter and austerity: Recipes for rabbit (or, if you insist, chicken).
• Mushroom Pies
• Ambrose Heath’s “Sussex Blanket”
• Sir Kenneth Clark’s “ham roll salad”
• A wartime ‘Kedgeree of Kidneys’
• Ambrose Heath and olive oil during wartime lead the Editor to wonder about some conventional wisdom concerning the insularity of the island kitchen.

• in the critical
• A review of At Elizabeth David’s Table and the consequent award of our first Ally.
• The Curmudgeonly Raconteur doubles down on St. John with the Editor.
• Two Museum Exhibits and The Ministry of Food by Jane Fearnley-Whittingstall
• in the lyrical
• A Note from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean) about austerity in Gloucestershire.
• An Appreciation of the Approval Matrix, Paula Deen & “English Peas”
• in the practical
• Roast chicken
• Carrots
• Baked cabbage and apples.
• Braised cabbage and carrots.
• Bread sauce
• Sussex stewed steak

• in the critical
• Phoebe Dinsmore and a friend enter the Wayback Machine to visit Henry Public
• An Appreciation of British Soups
• Our Guest Historian Reads Lark Rise
• in the lyrical
• Traditional Food in Wales from our Education Correspondent
• A 1960s culinary childhood in the northeast of England
• in the practical
• Turtle Soup
• Welsh Recipes
• Soup Recipes
• Boiley cake
• Yorkshire pudding
• Double or nothing roast beef

• in the critical
• Andrew Edmunds in the kitchen and on the page
• Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen: A reappraisal four decades on.
• in the lyrical
• An English Season: A Photo Essay
• Boxing Day
• in the practical
• Marbled veal
• Smoked Haddock and Shrimp Terrine
• Oxtail Terrine
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• A Seventeenth Century Mustard Sauce
• A Boxing Day Sauce for Leftover Turkey
• Baked Ham with Cumberland Sauce
• Boiled Daisy Ham with Vegetables
• Boiled Fresh Ham

• in the critical
• Andrew Edmunds in the kitchen and on the page
• Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen: A reappraisal four decades on.
• in the lyrical
• An English Season: A Photo Essay
• Christmas Day
• A festive holiday Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• Boxing Day
• in the practical
• Holiday Shopping Suggestions
• Smoked Haddock and Shrimp Terrine
• Oxtail Terrine
• Boiled Turkey with Stuffing and Celery Sauce
• A Seventeenth Century Mustard Sauce
• A Boxing Day Sauce for Leftover Turkey
• Baked Ham with Cumberland Sauce
• Boiled Daisy Ham with Vegetables
• Boiled Fresh Ham

• in the critical
• Harrods Book of Traditional English Cookery
• in the lyrical
• An Appreciation of Plimoth Plantation and James Deetz
• Thanksgiving with the Editor
• Thanksgiving, Italian-American Style
• A new Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• Talking Turkey
• in the practical
• Roast Turkey with Stuffing and Gravy.
• Turkey bread pudding
• Devilled turkey and pulled turkey.
• Seethed mussels
• Theodora FitzGibbon’s Brussels sprouts.
• A Brussels sprout salad
• Brussels sprouts with horseradish and bacon.
• Brussels sprouts and chestnuts.
• Pumpkin time
• Autumn Pudding

• in the critical
• We return to Clerkenwell in strength, and this time for dinner.
• in the lyrical
• An appreciation of Vincent Price and his last film.
• An Essay on Devils
• in the practical
• Jane Grigson’s white devil
• A recipe for Dry devils
• Devilled kidneys & something from the Gulf of Mexico via the North Sea (not oil).
• Devilled pork ribs
• Spiced Beef

• in the critical
• The Doctor in the (Victorian) Kitchen
• A review of Edwardian Glamour Cooking (Without Tears)
• in the lyrical
• Our American Correspondent in Egypt Meets the British in Cairo
• An Appreciation of Sir Henry Thompson.
• This Time, We Did Get Here First
• in the practical
• A Salad Inspired by Sir Henry Thompson
• Peaches and Pears: Battling a bumper crop.
• Glamorous Edwardian recipes
• Stuffed lamb chops
• Mrs. Ayrton’s tomato sauce for roast and grilled meats.
• Anchovy tomato sauce
• Cutlets Edward VII

• in the critical
• Notes from Canada on How to Cook Fish: Canadian Fish Cook Book
• An Appreciation of Wheelers
• in the lyrical
• A History of Freshwater Fishing
• A Note From The Edge (of the Forest of Dean) on Swan Lake
• Planters Punch - a poem
• in the practical
• A little salad history
• Cod with mushrooms in cider.
• Cod with Bacon and Cabbage.
• Stewed Cod
• Mackerel Prepared Many Ways
• Soused quail
• Flounder poached in cream
• Roast trout with bacon
• Trout fried in oatmeal
• Compound Butter Recipes

• in the critical
• A Review of Great British Food from Canteen, and Pig: King of the Southern Table by James Villas
• A Discussion of Cheese Straws
• in the lyrical
• An Appreciation of Bill Neal
• Another Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• Notes on Country Captain
• in the practical
• Green Gold
• Bobby Flay’s Country Captain.
• Roast pork with herb crust and onion gravy
• Oatmeal and onion pudding
• Bill Neal’s liver and cornmeal pudding
• A recipe for braised pork from Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock
• Strawberry Season
• Country Captain
• Country Captain a plainer way.
• Country Captain two even plainer ways.
• A Country Captain, southern style.
• Cecily Brownstone’s Country Captain.
• Bill Neal’s Cheese straws, which are really crackers.

• in the critical
• Foragers, fine food and more, encountered on television and in Cheltenham
• Our French Correspondent Visits The Breslin
• in the lyrical
• Rabbit in the British Diet
• in the practical
• Another Note From the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• Three Recipes for Venison Pie
• Some recipes for rabbit
• Sprottled eggs
• Aggie Jekyll’s pudding of chicken, mushroom and sausage

• in the critical
• Ski the east
• Shipshape and Bristol fashion: A very honest cookbook review
• in the lyrical
• The Crawfish Problem in England
• A first note from our own Curmudgeonly Raconteur
• Another Note from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• An Appreciation of Agnes Jekyll
• in the practical
• Diary of a Crawfisherman
• A selection of crawfish recipes
• Ham in Madiera
• Improved Cabbage
• Fungi Foraging

• in the critical
• The Albion - A restaurant review
• Bars in Bristol
• in the lyrical
• Notes about Notes from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• in the practical
• A Dinner from Bristol

• in the critical
• An Introduction to Elizabeth David
• Elizabeth David’s Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen
• A new British block of New York: West 10 Street
• A Review of Two Good Books
• College cuisine
• in the lyrical
• A British Bar Boomlet in New York: The Breslin, Clerkenwell and Highlands
• Fungi Foraging
• An Appreciation of Richard Collin- the late New Orleans restaurant critic and cookbook author
• in the practical
• A winter fool from Elizabeth David
• Another winter fool
• Variations on chicken fricassee
• Morels on toast
• Mushroom fricassee
• Alexis Soyer’s mushrooms under glass
• Potted Mushrooms
• Salt duck
• Turnips with orange
• Steak with sherry cream
• Sherried steak another way
• Sussex stewed steak
• Smashed Potatoes
• A Brussels sprout salad
• Potatoes in milk
• Primitive roast onions

• in the critical
• A Note on The Economist
• The Financial Times and the Art of Eating, or Good Taste is No Fun.
• A Case Study in Branding: the Conglomeration of Mark Hix (with Restaurant Review of Hix Oyster & Chop House)
• in the lyrical
• Notes Contemplating an Excursion from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• A lament for white sauce
• in the practical
• Shrimp Pudding - from London England Cooking
• Shrimp Pudding - from English Puddings: Sweet and Savoury
• A green salad with oranges, red onion and stilton
• Driving Shoe Dressing
• Barbecued shrimp
• Winter Fools
• A January Note from the Editor

• in the critical
• British Charcuterie by Jennie Reekie
• Corrigans Mayfair - Restaurant Review
• in the lyrical
• An Appreciation of the Pudding Cloth.
• A Discussion of Some Hazlitts
• in the practical
• Notes from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• Bacon and Onion Pudding
• Haslet
• Oxford sausages

• in the critical
• Double Crown - Restaurant Review
• How bad is Guinness 250?
• Transatlantic Transgressions: The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.
• in the lyrical
• An Appreciation of Laurie Colwin.
• Notes from the Edge (of the Forest of Dean)
• Seasonal Food and Celebrity Chefs
• in the practical
• A Dinner of Beef Guinness
• Laurie Colwin’s Spiced Walnuts