Boiled mutton

This is the boiled mutton described by Jane Grigson in Food with the Famous that James Woodforde served his parishioners at the boozy Tithe Audit party, except that now it is lamb. Translated into twentieth century by Mrs. Grigson and equally suitable for the twenty first. “An eighteenth century dish” as she has said of another, “and a good one.”

For the lamb:

• a leg of lamb lamb, preferably on the bone
• enough lamb stock if you have some, to cover the meat; otherwise chicken stock or water
• mixed fresh herbs tied together (a bouquet garni if you insist)
• some quartered carrots
• a few celery stalks
• a couple of onions, optionally stuck with cloves but not if you are Robin McDouall

For its sauce:

• 2 generous Tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 Tablespoon flour (preferably Wondra)
• a generous pint of the stock from the lamb
• salt & pepper
• 2-3 egg yolks (see the Notes)
• 2-3 Tablespoons heavy whipping cream
• 2 heaped Tablespoons capers
• some of their vinegar
• heaped Tablespoon or more minced parsley

1. Bring the lamb to a boil with its stock or water and aromatics, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook the meat for about half an hour per pound.
2. Melt half the butter over medium heat, whisk in the flour to form a paste, and slowly pour on the warm stock.
3. Reduce the heat and let the nascent sauce “simmer down to the onsistency of whipping cream.” Season the sauce and keep it just warm.
4. Beat the yolks with the cream
5. “About five minutes before serving,” whisk in the rest of the butter followed by the cream and yolk liaison. Increase the heat a little to thicken the sauce but do not let it boil or the eggs will curdle and ruin the sauce.
6. Stir the capers, vinegar and parsley into the sauce and get it off the heat.

Notes:

-Boiled lamb may not look as good as a roast but it is even better and the sauce is transcendental.

-It you are unskilled with sauce thickened with egg yolk and fear the curdle, substitute a half a cup of heavy cream for the yolks. The sauce will be good but not as good.

-This is one of the few instances where we permit ourselves italics, due to the difficulty of save the yolk infused sauce.

-Mrs. Grigson initially specifies “at least 1 heaped tablespoon vinegar (the italics are hers and do not appear elsewhere in her recipe) but in the end reneges to join us instead: “If you know the tastes of your company, you can put in more capers; we like plenty.

-We have more than doubled her quantity of parsley too.