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of British foodways.

NO.55
WINTER2017

A Number of Inconsistencies

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in the practical

Roast pork chops with rhubarb sauce and sage butter.
This is another recipe adapted from Terry Edwards and George Craig and is, as they claim, akin Yorkshire, famed for its pigs and rhubarb, on a plate. For the uninformed, that is a compliment, not a caveat. For four.

Salmon baked with a smear of English mustard, malt vinegar and herbs.
This is one of those recipes from Terry Edwards and George Craig that is embarrassing, embarrassing because the composition seems so simple and sublime that we should feel foolish for failing to create it first. Edwards and Craig deserve all the credit. For four.

Black pudding hash and eggs.
A good introduction to black pudding for the uninitiated and squeamish, and another innovation from Terry Edwards and George Craig that had very nearly hid in plain sight until they tried it. We have taken this hash further than they did, among other things by adding beets in the red flannel New England way. Four big servings.

Yorkshire buck.
Craig Claiborne included this most British of recipes in a 1965 illustrated bagatelle published by The New York Times. The enigmatically entitled Cookbook for Booksellers includes only twelve recipes, all but one of them introduced by a literary quotation. A soothing dish for a night of foul weather. For four bucks.

‘Smoked’ ketchup
‘Smoked’ ketchup is a ridiculous improvement to the stuff from the bottle and easy to make. From Cooking For Friends by Terry Edwards and George Craig.

Weeknight chicken with butter beans, a recipe derived from Nigel Slater.
As discussed in the critical, the original recipe from Slater is not quite good but holds a lot of promise. We fulfill the promise here with a recipe for two.

The Fortnum & Mason Threepenny Mary cocktail for the holidays
The Fortnum & Mason Threepenny Mary cocktail for the holidays is both complicated and festive and may be, should be, assembled in advance to steep, so it is handy for a crowd. Alchemy; our version is more accessible to Americans than the Fortnums original, which uses a measure of orange marmalade vodka for the bitters. Proportions may be doubled, tripled or otherwise increased at constant proportion.

Parsnips baked with sausage and cheese.
This homely dish was created from whole cloth by Jane Grigson “one winter’s night as away of stretching an inadequate supply of sausages round the family.” They found it so good that it became a staple in her household. Six servings.

Elisabeth Ayrton’s game with beans
“a luncheon dish at the Garrick club in the nineteenth century.” It is quite good, if a bit rich for modern sensibilities at lunchtime. Anyway two noble members of the club had argued about the key to the success of the dish. “‘It’s the beans make the bird,’” said one. “‘You mean,’ replied another, ‘It’s the bird makes the beans.’” They both had a point.

Boulestin’s chicken with capers.
A simple recipe packed with flavor, this one uses an unorthodox sequence by starting a roux and then searing the chicken in it. Although you keep the roux white rather than allowing it to darken, the technique is more typical of Louisiana than England or France. It appears in a British cookbook, however, and Boulestin relished British food, so we will claim it.

Boulestin’s Maltese curry with Worcestershire.
An utterly English egg dish despite its name that, Boulestin immodestly but justifiably if hyperbolically claims, is “a rich brown curry, at the same time hot and sweet, dry and soft, and better than any curry you can get in India or anywhere else.” Four smallish servings with rice.

Boulestin’s duck with brandy, claret and port
The method for cooking the duck is simplicity itself. Toss some legs in a hot oven and roast for twenty minutes or so. The sauce makes the dish: Old School Anglo-French and none the worse for that. For two; may be doubled.

the practical archive

No.54, Fall 2017
A Number of Cook Books, featuring The Cook Book
No.53, Summer 2017
A Number of Bars & Beers, Some of Them Irish
No.52, Spring 2017
Another Northern Number, in Which We Return to Tourtière, and featuring Insular Foodways
No.51, Winter 2016
A Number of Revivals & Reinventions,
featuring Oxtail and Treacle
No.50, Fall 2016
A Number of Eccentrics & Eccentricities featuring Hybrids
No.49, Summer 2016
A Summer Number of Sandwiches and Soup,
featuring Enquiries into Origin
No.48, Spring 2016
A Northern Number
No.47, Winter 2015
A Wintry Number featuring Cambridge
No.46, Fall 2015
Our Fifth Anniversary Number, Featuring Figures Past and Future, and Ketchup
No.45, Summer 2015
A Number of Bloomsbury Fancies -
Culinary, Erotic & Otherwise
No.44, Spring 2015
A Sort of Archeological Number
No.43, Winter 2014
Our First Scottish Number
No.42, Fall 2014
A Number of Savory Pies for Fall
No.41, Summer 2014
Our First Foray Toward the Foodways of India
No.40, Spring 2014
An Eighteenth Century Interlude
No.39, Winter 2013
A Winter Number featuring
More Curious Cuisine and Holiday Cheer
No.38, Fall 2013
A Meandering Fall Number, With Curious Questions and, Perhaps, Curious Cuisine
No.37, Summer 2013
An Eclectic Summer Number featuring a Forgotten Champion and More Musings on Madeira
No.36, Spring 2013
Our First Quarterly Number, featuring
a Vanished Ireland and Worcestershire
No.35, Feb 2013
A Wintry Number of Soups & Stews
No.34, Mid-Winter 2012
Our Third Holiday Number
No.33, Nov 2012
Our Second Preservation Number
No.32, Oct 2012
The Philadelphia Story
No.31, Sep 2012
Sandwiches, Salads and Spitalfields
No.30, Jul/Aug 2012
Oystermania and A Riverine Expedition
No.29, Jun 2012
The Oyster Number
No.28, May 2012
Another Spring Number Featuring
the Poetry of Ronald Johnson
No.27, Apr 2012
A Chicago Number Featuring Pies
No.26, Mar 2012
Our First Irish Number
No.25, Feb 2012
A Preservation Number
No.24, Mid-Winter 2011
A Number of Classics for the Holidays
No.23, Nov 2011
Our Second Thanksgiving Number
No.22, Oct 2011
A Dairy Number
No.21, Sep 2011
O! Canada - A Number Devoted to
North Atlantic Foodways
No.20, Jul/Aug 2011
Another Caribbean Number, featuring Jamaica
No.19, Jun 2011
A First Caribbean Number, featuring Barbados
No.18, May 2011
Our First Nautical Number
No.17, Apr 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 2
No.16, Mar 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 1
No.15, Feb 2011
The Food of the People
No.14, Jan 2011
Our Customary January Supplement
No.13, Dec 2010
Our Inaugural Holiday Number
No.12, Nov 2010
The Thanksgiving Number
No.11, Oct 2010
A First All Hallows Number
No.10, Sep 2010
A VictoEdwardian Number
No.9, Jul/Aug 2010
The Midsummer Number
No.8, Jun 2010
Britain and the American South
No.7, May 2010
A Second Seasonal Number
No.6, Apr 2010
A Seasonal Number
No.5, Mar 2010
The Bristolian Number
No.4, Feb 2010
The Elizabeth David Number
No.3, Mid-Winter 2009
The Killjoy Number
No.2, Nov 2009
The Charcuterie Number
No.1, Oct 2009
The Launch Number