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of British foodways.

NO.52
SPRING2017

Another Northern Number, in Which We Return to Tourtière, and featuring Insular Foodways

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in the practical

Alice Bradley’s anchovy savories, which she calls canapes.
In 1922, Alice Bradley, then the influential successor to Fanny Farmer at the Boston Cooking School, published a small book of straightforward recipes called For Luncheon and Supper Guests. This is her recipe for anchovy savories.

Ruby Tandoh’s favorite chicken pie
Ruby Tandoh’s favorite chicken pie is one of the recipes from Flavour, her superb second cookbook that includes a number of British dishes. A pie for six or six individual pies.

Ruby Tandoh’s fish pie.
Ruby Tandoh’s fish pie. A traditional pie from the simpler side of the spectrum that allows the selected flavors to shine. Tandoh, a twenty-four year old prodigy, bakes an exemplary pie. For four.

Margaret Stout’s ingenious salt cod pie
A simple dish as befits Shetland and Orcadian tradition, this is the only recipe for pie we have found that uses bread sauce as the base for its filling, a brilliant idea we feel foolish for failing to have foreseen.

Sassermaet clatch
In Shetland dialect, clatch translates roughly as a smear; something clatchy is sticky. This dish does not quite match either definition, although the name is evocative enough of the highly spiced pie topped with potato “similar in principle,” according to Marian Armitage, “to a shepherd’s pie.”

Shetland saucermeat
A lavish does of dry spice and salt helped preserve minced, or ground, meat, usually beef but sometimes lamb, during the cold winter months before the era of refrigeration. As with many other preserved foods, adherents developed a taste for saucermeat that has outlived its original purpose, and the spiced meat remains the most iconic of Shetland dishes. Because of its pungency, saucermeat traditionally has been cut with fresh meat or combined with breadcrumb or other adjuncts to make dishes like bronies, clatch or meatloaf as well as eaten on its own.

Saucermeat bronies 
This old school recipe comes straight from the 1925 Shetland classic, Cookery For Northern Wives by Margaret Stout, except that we have halved the total amount and increased the proportion of onion and egg.

Orkney pork and kale
This is no dish from the contemporary kale craze, far from it; kale is among the oldest Orkney crops, cultivated at least since the seventeenth century, and the traditional preparation uses pickled or salt rather than fresh pork. Its simplicity belies its appeal, in that respect much the same as Dublin coddle or Irish stew.

Steamed mince pudding
It may appear counterintuitive, but this is an exceptional dish. Steaming the beef and onion in suet pastry, as Rupert Croft-Cooke knew of puddings more generally, concentrates flavors like no other technique.

Shetland puddeens
It was not until the late seventeenth century that a clever cook realized the animal casing was unnecessary, and so began the revolutionary proliferation of puddings throughout the British Isles. This particular pudding sounds odd in its collision of savory and sweet flavors but the combination in fact creates a harmonious whole.

Ruby Tandoh’s gingerbread laced with porter
This recipe is from Crumb, Tandoh’s first cookbook. The porter makes the cake. You will want an eight inch springform cake pan.

Bread sauce
There are many variations on bread sauce; the only pitfall is the need to avoid curdling the milk if you decide to add whiskey, which is recommended. It is the classic English accompaniment to roast chicken and most other game birds, particularly grouse. It is an excellent sauce, a sort of slurried stuffing: Whoever said that “the whole point of roast chicken is bread sauce” was right. Our version is unconventional in keeping the onion in the sauce rather than removing it: We like the textural contrast that the onion gives the bread.

A clam soup from the Hebrides.
Clams are not indigenous to the British Isles, at least not the clams that proliferate in New England mud flats, but cockles and winkles abound. Any of the three bivalve species will make a good Hebridean clam soup. If, however, you choose clams, choose small ones instead of quahogs. Four servings.

Tourtiere
Tourtiere. A staple of kitchens in Atlantic Canada,the term itself is derived from the name of the extinct carrier pigeon that originally formed the basis for its filling. It is a simple pie of ground meat and mashed potato, usually seasoned with mixed ground spice--allspice, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, mace and even, unusually, coriander--enveloped in shortcrust. No longer a regular presence on Canadian tables, tourtiere makes its appearance on special occasions and retains a particular association with Reveillon.

the practical archive

No.51, Winter 2016
A Number of Revivals & Reinventions,
featuring Oxtail and Treacle
No.50, Fall 2016
A Number of Eccentrics & Eccentricities featuring Hybrids
No.49, Summer 2016
A Summer Number of Sandwiches and Soup,
featuring Enquiries into Origin
No.48, Spring 2016
A Northern Number
No.47, Winter 2015
A Wintry Number featuring Cambridge
No.46, Fall 2015
Our Fifth Anniversary Number, Featuring Figures Past and Future, and Ketchup
No.45, Summer 2015
A Number of Bloomsbury Fancies -
Culinary, Erotic & Otherwise
No.44, Spring 2015
A Sort of Archeological Number
No.43, Winter 2014
Our First Scottish Number
No.42, Fall 2014
A Number of Savory Pies for Fall
No.41, Summer 2014
Our First Foray Toward the Foodways of India
No.40, Spring 2014
An Eighteenth Century Interlude
No.39, Winter 2013
A Winter Number featuring
More Curious Cuisine and Holiday Cheer
No.38, Fall 2013
A Meandering Fall Number, With Curious Questions and, Perhaps, Curious Cuisine
No.37, Summer 2013
An Eclectic Summer Number featuring a Forgotten Champion and More Musings on Madeira
No.36, Spring 2013
Our First Quarterly Number, featuring
a Vanished Ireland and Worcestershire
No.35, Feb 2013
A Wintry Number of Soups & Stews
No.34, Mid-Winter 2012
Our Third Holiday Number
No.33, Nov 2012
Our Second Preservation Number
No.32, Oct 2012
The Philadelphia Story
No.31, Sep 2012
Sandwiches, Salads and Spitalfields
No.30, Jul/Aug 2012
Oystermania and A Riverine Expedition
No.29, Jun 2012
The Oyster Number
No.28, May 2012
Another Spring Number Featuring
the Poetry of Ronald Johnson
No.27, Apr 2012
A Chicago Number Featuring Pies
No.26, Mar 2012
Our First Irish Number
No.25, Feb 2012
A Preservation Number
No.24, Mid-Winter 2011
A Number of Classics for the Holidays
No.23, Nov 2011
Our Second Thanksgiving Number
No.22, Oct 2011
A Dairy Number
No.21, Sep 2011
O! Canada - A Number Devoted to
North Atlantic Foodways
No.20, Jul/Aug 2011
Another Caribbean Number, featuring Jamaica
No.19, Jun 2011
A First Caribbean Number, featuring Barbados
No.18, May 2011
Our First Nautical Number
No.17, Apr 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 2
No.16, Mar 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 1
No.15, Feb 2011
The Food of the People
No.14, Jan 2011
Our Customary January Supplement
No.13, Dec 2010
Our Inaugural Holiday Number
No.12, Nov 2010
The Thanksgiving Number
No.11, Oct 2010
A First All Hallows Number
No.10, Sep 2010
A VictoEdwardian Number
No.9, Jul/Aug 2010
The Midsummer Number
No.8, Jun 2010
Britain and the American South
No.7, May 2010
A Second Seasonal Number
No.6, Apr 2010
A Seasonal Number
No.5, Mar 2010
The Bristolian Number
No.4, Feb 2010
The Elizabeth David Number
No.3, Mid-Winter 2009
The Killjoy Number
No.2, Nov 2009
The Charcuterie Number
No.1, Oct 2009
The Launch Number