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NO.54
FALL2017

A Number of Cook Books, featuring The Cook Book

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in the practical

Robin McDouall’s tomato ice.
Jane Grigson calls it ice cream, which as we should expect of her is more accurate but also less likely to get anyone to try this bracing medium for shellfish. Simplicity itself for a summery starter that nonetheless would be welcomed any time but the coldest depth of winter. This is the version Mrs. Grigson published in her Vegetable Book. The quotations in the recipes are from the book.

“Canapés Ivanhoe”
The eccentric R. D. Mennel mentions them and so does the equally eccentric Vicomte de Maduit, both of whom published in England at the time. In The Cook Book, Tom Parker Bowles is properly puzzled by the name, because the canapé in fact is a savory and, as he notes, it really has nothing to so with “Sir Walter Scott’s Norman knight.” No matter, this is an irresistible dish for anybody who likes smoked fish. Six servings.

Jane Grigson’s Lettuce soup
A bit of an English classic, is not all that different from her parsnip soup; the titular ingredient, some garlic, onion, stock and cream to finish. That is why it is so good.

Curried parsnip soup
Curried parsnip soup from Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book. In English Cookery Mrs. Grigson declares: “The best English soups are unrivalled, but one might wish there were more of them.” This unrivalled recipe begins to redress the dearth.

Parsnips baked with sausage and cheese.
This homely dish was created from whole cloth by Jane Grigson “one winter’s night as away of stretching an inadequate supply of sausages round the family.” They found it so good that it became a staple in her household. Six servings.

Elisabeth Ayrton’s game with beans
“a luncheon dish at the Garrick club in the nineteenth century.” It is quite good, if a bit rich for modern sensibilities at lunchtime. Anyway two noble members of the club had argued about the key to the success of the dish. “‘It’s the beans make the bird,’” said one. “‘You mean,’ replied another, ‘It’s the bird makes the beans.’” They both had a point.

Fortnum & Mason’s rabbit potted in duck fat
Fortnum & Mason’s rabbit potted in duck fat is doubly preserved, first by curing with traditional English spice and then by potting with the traditional technique. A particularly good recipe from Tom Parker Bowles and (a little) innovative in its use of the fat instead of butter and in cooking the rabbit with it.

the practical archive

No.53, Summer 2017
A Number of Bars & Beers, Some of Them Irish
No.52, Spring 2017
Another Northern Number, in Which We Return to Tourtière, and featuring Insular Foodways
No.51, Winter 2016
A Number of Revivals & Reinventions,
featuring Oxtail and Treacle
No.50, Fall 2016
A Number of Eccentrics & Eccentricities featuring Hybrids
No.49, Summer 2016
A Summer Number of Sandwiches and Soup,
featuring Enquiries into Origin
No.48, Spring 2016
A Northern Number
No.47, Winter 2015
A Wintry Number featuring Cambridge
No.46, Fall 2015
Our Fifth Anniversary Number, Featuring Figures Past and Future, and Ketchup
No.45, Summer 2015
A Number of Bloomsbury Fancies -
Culinary, Erotic & Otherwise
No.44, Spring 2015
A Sort of Archeological Number
No.43, Winter 2014
Our First Scottish Number
No.42, Fall 2014
A Number of Savory Pies for Fall
No.41, Summer 2014
Our First Foray Toward the Foodways of India
No.40, Spring 2014
An Eighteenth Century Interlude
No.39, Winter 2013
A Winter Number featuring
More Curious Cuisine and Holiday Cheer
No.38, Fall 2013
A Meandering Fall Number, With Curious Questions and, Perhaps, Curious Cuisine
No.37, Summer 2013
An Eclectic Summer Number featuring a Forgotten Champion and More Musings on Madeira
No.36, Spring 2013
Our First Quarterly Number, featuring
a Vanished Ireland and Worcestershire
No.35, Feb 2013
A Wintry Number of Soups & Stews
No.34, Mid-Winter 2012
Our Third Holiday Number
No.33, Nov 2012
Our Second Preservation Number
No.32, Oct 2012
The Philadelphia Story
No.31, Sep 2012
Sandwiches, Salads and Spitalfields
No.30, Jul/Aug 2012
Oystermania and A Riverine Expedition
No.29, Jun 2012
The Oyster Number
No.28, May 2012
Another Spring Number Featuring
the Poetry of Ronald Johnson
No.27, Apr 2012
A Chicago Number Featuring Pies
No.26, Mar 2012
Our First Irish Number
No.25, Feb 2012
A Preservation Number
No.24, Mid-Winter 2011
A Number of Classics for the Holidays
No.23, Nov 2011
Our Second Thanksgiving Number
No.22, Oct 2011
A Dairy Number
No.21, Sep 2011
O! Canada - A Number Devoted to
North Atlantic Foodways
No.20, Jul/Aug 2011
Another Caribbean Number, featuring Jamaica
No.19, Jun 2011
A First Caribbean Number, featuring Barbados
No.18, May 2011
Our First Nautical Number
No.17, Apr 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 2
No.16, Mar 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 1
No.15, Feb 2011
The Food of the People
No.14, Jan 2011
Our Customary January Supplement
No.13, Dec 2010
Our Inaugural Holiday Number
No.12, Nov 2010
The Thanksgiving Number
No.11, Oct 2010
A First All Hallows Number
No.10, Sep 2010
A VictoEdwardian Number
No.9, Jul/Aug 2010
The Midsummer Number
No.8, Jun 2010
Britain and the American South
No.7, May 2010
A Second Seasonal Number
No.6, Apr 2010
A Seasonal Number
No.5, Mar 2010
The Bristolian Number
No.4, Feb 2010
The Elizabeth David Number
No.3, Mid-Winter 2009
The Killjoy Number
No.2, Nov 2009
The Charcuterie Number
No.1, Oct 2009
The Launch Number