The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.


A Number of Bars & Beers, Some of Them Irish


in the critical

A note on Guinness Foreign Extra.
Traditional strong bottled stout now is available as Guinness Foreign Extra, or available again, in the United States. This is the flavor of standard bottled Guinness before the family sold out to an inauthentic international behemoth, robust enough to stand up to a blue cheese and canned sardines forty years ago, clandestinely drunken in an Andover dorm.

A traveler’s note; the beer! the beer!...
and books!, at Heathrow no less.

London’s Heathrow Airport has been justifiably dreaded for its laborious terminal connections, chaotic layout and long, long walkways. In the past the facilities there left a great deal to be desired, but in fairness Heathrow no longer resembles the sinkhole of old. If things have improved from a low base, the excess of retail outlets haunted by aggressive hawkers of useless ‘luxury’ goods only adds trauma to the inherently stressful ordeal of airline travel in this era of edgy security checks.

A wolf gives a gift of coddle and champions the can.
A Wolf in the Kitchen introduced us to Dublin coddle, and for that alone we would be grateful to its author, Lindsey Bareham. Bareham is a distinguished writer of cookbooks and prolific columnist, but that tale is for another time. Back to the Wolf, its subtitle sets the tone; “easy food for hungry people.”

A return, of sorts, to historical form: The Plagiarist in the Kitchen by Jonathan Meades.
In 1939, Flann O’Brien published At Swim-Two-Birds. Nothing about it, he insisted, was new. All the characters, the competing and contradictory narratives, are stolen. According to Anne Clissman, by the end “it has presented some 36 different styles and 42 extracts.” (Hopper) Ironically, O’Brien’s mining of literary form and content created something original, a hallucinatory universe in which the characters render an author who created them incapacitated in their effort to wrest control of their destinies from him.

All in the Cooking: An icon of twentieth century Ireland.
All in the Cooking first appeared in 1946, when the reputation of Irish food was famously and justly poor. It would remain the standard text in Irish schools for three decades. All in the Cooking arguably represents the first actually Irish cookbook, a rather extraordinary thing considering its original date of publication.

the critical archive

No.52, Spring 2017
Another Northern Number, in Which We Return to Tourtière, and featuring Insular Foodways
No.51, Winter 2016
A Number of Revivals & Reinventions,
featuring Oxtail and Treacle
No.50, Fall 2016
A Number of Eccentrics & Eccentricities featuring Hybrids
No.49, Summer 2016
A Summer Number of Sandwiches and Soup,
featuring Enquiries into Origin
No.48, Spring 2016
A Northern Number
No.47, Winter 2015
A Wintry Number featuring Cambridge
No.46, Fall 2015
Our Fifth Anniversary Number, Featuring Figures Past and Future, and Ketchup
No.45, Summer 2015
A Number of Bloomsbury Fancies -
Culinary, Erotic & Otherwise
No.44, Spring 2015
A Sort of Archeological Number
No.43, Winter 2014
Our First Scottish Number
No.42, Fall 2014
A Number of Savory Pies for Fall
No.41, Summer 2014
Our First Foray Toward the Foodways of India
No.40, Spring 2014
An Eighteenth Century Interlude
No.39, Winter 2013
A Winter Number featuring
More Curious Cuisine and Holiday Cheer
No.38, Fall 2013
A Meandering Fall Number, With Curious Questions and, Perhaps, Curious Cuisine
No.37, Summer 2013
An Eclectic Summer Number featuring a Forgotten Champion and More Musings on Madeira
No.36, Spring 2013
Our First Quarterly Number, featuring
a Vanished Ireland and Worcestershire
No.35, Feb 2013
A Wintry Number of Soups & Stews
No.34, Mid-Winter 2012
Our Third Holiday Number
No.33, Nov 2012
Our Second Preservation Number
No.32, Oct 2012
The Philadelphia Story
No.31, Sep 2012
Sandwiches, Salads and Spitalfields
No.30, Jul/Aug 2012
Oystermania and A Riverine Expedition
No.29, Jun 2012
The Oyster Number
No.28, May 2012
Another Spring Number Featuring
the Poetry of Ronald Johnson
No.27, Apr 2012
A Chicago Number Featuring Pies
No.26, Mar 2012
Our First Irish Number
No.25, Feb 2012
A Preservation Number
No.24, Mid-Winter 2011
A Number of Classics for the Holidays
No.23, Nov 2011
Our Second Thanksgiving Number
No.22, Oct 2011
A Dairy Number
No.21, Sep 2011
O! Canada - A Number Devoted to
North Atlantic Foodways
No.20, Jul/Aug 2011
Another Caribbean Number, featuring Jamaica
No.19, Jun 2011
A First Caribbean Number, featuring Barbados
No.18, May 2011
Our First Nautical Number
No.17, Apr 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 2
No.16, Mar 2011
The Hardship, War & Austerity Number, Part 1
No.15, Feb 2011
The Food of the People
No.14, Jan 2011
Our Customary January Supplement
No.13, Dec 2010
Our Inaugural Holiday Number
No.12, Nov 2010
The Thanksgiving Number
No.11, Oct 2010
A First All Hallows Number
No.10, Sep 2010
A VictoEdwardian Number
No.9, Jul/Aug 2010
The Midsummer Number
No.8, Jun 2010
Britain and the American South
No.7, May 2010
A Second Seasonal Number
No.6, Apr 2010
A Seasonal Number
No.5, Mar 2010
The Bristolian Number
No.4, Feb 2010
The Elizabeth David Number
No.3, Mid-Winter 2009
The Killjoy Number
No.2, Nov 2009
The Charcuterie Number
No.1, Oct 2009
The Launch Number