Sir Morton O’Doherty’s devilled ham

Sir Morton O’Doherty’s devilled ham is not something ground and potted, like Underwood’s, but rather an example of the British devils much in vogue during the long eighteenth century. They are overdue for revival. This one is simplicity itself in dispensing with typical seasonings of curry, mustard, ale or porter and latterly Worcestershire but then Sir Morton, who did not really exist, was more than passing fond of cayenne and Madeira. He highlights them here. Maxim the One Hundred and Twelfth from the book of his Maxims that originally appeared in Blackwood’s Magazine, the Tory bible of Regency Edinburgh.

-You will need a slice of ‘roasted,’ these days of course actually baked, ham along with the Madeira (choose something either dryish or sweet, up to you) and cayenne. And maybe toast.

Preheat the oven to 400°.

1. Brush the ham and heat it in a shallow dish or pan, turning it and brushing it a few times.
2. Sprinkle the ham liberally with cayenne and serve it on toast (optional)