The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.51
WINTER2016

Devilled pork chops from Victor Gordon’s English Cookbook.

Gordon took as his brief the creation of a new English cuisine lighter and fresher than traditional preparations while also remaining true to the character of what he liked to call insular cooking. This recipe, however, might have emerged from and eighteenth century clubland kitchen or gentry estate. It is none the worse for that. Four pleasantly spiced chops.


  • Pig-from-Food-in-England.png4 pork chops
  • about 10 oz medium dry Sherry, like Amontillado
  • 2 smashed garlic cloves
  • cayenne
  • 4 or so minced fresh hot chilies
  • about 2 Tablespoons lard (preferred), bacon fat or neutral oil
  • 4 peeled and chopped shallots
  • about a cup of heavy cream
  • salt

  1. Marinate the chops in the Sherry, chilies and garlic in the refrigerator overnight.
  2. Dry the chops and dust them with cayenne.
  3. Throw out the garlic, reduce the marinade with the chilies, and keep it warm.
  4. Fry the chops over medium low heat in the lard or other fat; they should be cooked in less than 10 minutes. Keep them warm.
  5. Fry the shallots in the fat left from the chops until soft. Strain the Sherry reduction into the pan and reduce it to a glaze. Add the cream, bring the sauce to a boil and turn off the heat. Season the chops and serve them.

 

Notes:

-Gordon always sprinkled his devilled chops with chopped watercress or parsley. The bright watercress is a particularly good foil for the devil.

-Gordon used dried rather than fresh chilies because they were easier to obtain when the recipe appeared in1985.

-He marinates the chops with a single halved garlic clove.