The online magazine
dedicated to the
discussion & revival
of British foodways.

NO.73
SPRING / SUMMER2024

Daisy Breaux’ ‘Calhoun Concoction’

Daisy Breaux’ ‘Calhoun Concoction’ is her serviceable substitute for truffled foie gras. Its flavor may not much resemble its model so should not be considered a species of the ‘mock’ variety despite its modest constituents. She gives no proportions; a little common sense and a lot of personal preference in terms of pungence and texture is all that is needed to concoct her quickly constructed starter:

mushroom-foraging204.png“‘The Calhoun Concoction’ is made with fresh Liverwurst. The slices are provided in quantity, a couple of slices for each guest--and a few over. The whole is mashed to a soft paste with buttermilk or milk that has been soured with lemon juice. The juice or [sic] half a lemon is squeezed into the paste itself, which is highly flavored also, with Worcestershire and Tabasco.

Instead of truffles… I used ripe olives cut in slivers, like the sliced truffles; but I think they tasted better.

I also added a can of button-mushrooms, chopped very fine.”

Notes:

-The Duke of Windsor, when he was Prince of Wales, thought, Breaux claims, it was grand.

-Tuck the Concoction into a rectangular or elliptical terrine depending on whether you want to slice the stuff like Beaux nee Calhoun or pry it straight from the pot.

-Canned mushrooms, especially whole buttons, are not at all bad, but fresh ones are appropriately frugal if they have become a bit elderly and are nearing their heavenly reward in the trash. Either way give them a good sear to improve the flavor and texture after cutting them small.

-Powdered porcini, or porcini flour, serve at least as well as the button mushrooms and lend some mystery because you cannot see them. Do not attempt porcini themselves; their texture would be too tough.