Croute Windsor

Rosie Sykes claims her ‘Croute Windsor’ comes from Clubland Cooking, a somewhat eccentric and decidedly minimalist period piece laced with wry humor and pronounced prejudices, in other words an exceptional artifact and practical guide. The Mcdouall preparation, which he calls a canapé, not a croute, consists solely of two ounces minced ham mixed with a little Port and heavy cream, then hidden under (yes, beneath) “one large grilled mushroom.” Other than ham and mushroom, the Sykes version has nothing in common with its putative model. Sykes fries thick slices of the ham and mushroom in olive oil together, then reduces ‘a splash of Sherry or lemon juice before adding crème fraiche and chives. The combination is served over toast instead of under a mushroom, a sensible enough complication. It is not Mcdouall’s but it is good. A savoury, snack or light supper for one.

• 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
• a big mushroom, thickly sliced
• a thick 2 oz slice of ham cut to ribbons
• some sherry or, less good, lemon juice
• 2 Tablespoons creme fraiche
• snipped chive or minced scallion greens
• toast

1. Set the butter in a small heavy skillet over medium heat until it bubbles, then fry the mushroom and ham together until warm, then boost the heat to cook off any liquid.
2. Add the Sherry and reduce it to a thick syrup, add the crème fresh and stir it to coat the mix.
3. Season the croute, add the chives or greens and serve on the toast.

Note:

-Sykes calls for ‘light olive oil,’ an imaginary marketing term, instead of the butter. The oil is more forgiving but a (little) less British.