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of British foodways.

NO.73
SPRING / SUMMER2024

Travellers Pie from Clubland Cooking by Robin McDouall

The name refers not to a journey but to the club that McDouall ran as secretary for some three decades. The recipe is a fine example of English empiricism practiced by a French chef familiar with the British culinary idiom:

“One year, when the grouse ran out and we couldn’t make grouse-and-steak any more, our chef, Monsieur Raymond Serre, invented a pie which he called Travellers’ Pie. This is how it’s done:”

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  • travellersclub3.jpg ¾ lb lean veal (or turkey if squeamish about the veal)
  • 1 lb pork shoulder
  • ¼ lb ham
  • an onion
  • a garlic clove
  • parsley
  • salt & pepper
  • nutmeg
  • 6 oz Amontillado Sherry
  • some slices of lean veal (or turkey if squeamish)
  • slices (“rashers”) of unsmoked bacon ( see the Notes)
  • short pastry

 

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Preheat the oven to 350˚ (a “moderate oven” in Old School terminology).

“Chop the veal, pork and ham, the onion, garlic and parsley, and marinate them overnight in the sherry (with seasoning).

Line a pie-dish with the slices of veal. Put in the mixture. Cover with rashers. Moisten with stock. Put on the pastry lid and cook in a moderate oven for about two hours.”

Serve this pie hot.       

 

Notes:

-The quotations are from page 78 of Clubland , published in London during 1974.

-Unsmoked bacon usually is marketed in the United States as Irish bacon, much of it manufactured in Queens and other domestic locations. Canadian bacon is a handy substitute.

-McDouall does not specify a grade of Sherry. Fino is the drier alternative to our Amontillado.

-The bfia recipe for piecrust appears in the practical.